Cut then spray or just spray it?

[AnythingFeathers]

Not sure why you would add 24D to gly? I would avoid any broadleaf/ grass specific herbicides. They typically have a plant back time. If your spraying in next week or so you would be fine with some 24D because plant back is 14-30 days on brassicas. Unless you have good control over rate on your spray method you could have to much and extend that plant back time to 45 days. Especially since brassicas, turnip would be considered broadleafs. You have a grass issue. Gly will kill what you have. It should kill any broadleafs that the 24D would get. If you want to boost the kill some use Hel-Fire. It will increase the gly’s effectiveness.
As far as broadcast onto sprayed and mowed, yeah, it will work, but nowhere near what discing, broadcast and dragging will get you. And you’ll need to spread about double the seed to get a decent stand.
I’ve been planting brassicas for 25 years. Larger plots- 1-6 acres. 20+ acres total. I prefer to no-till for ease and efficiency. But, tge best brassica success I have comes from discing, dragging, put out seed and drag again. I have always used a drill never broadcast, but my drill method is same as broadcast. I’m drilling grains, I pull small box tubes completely out of the carrier and let brassicas, clover, radishes fall directly on top and have a baseball field drag or chain drag behind drill covering the small seeds.
Soil to seed contact and depth is paramount. That’s why dragging and prepping bed BEFORE planting is important. In a small plot I plot I would definitely take time to do this.
If you are going to disc. Spray gly at 1 1/2 - 2% mixture. Give a few days to a week. Mow it. Wait a week or 2, disc it to turn under the duff. Come back disc, drag, seed, drag on around your target date.
I would avoid any grass/broadleaf specific herbicides. They have soil residual, they can mess you up.

[Sasha and Abby]

Not sure why you would add 24D to gly? I would avoid any broadleaf/ grass specific herbicides. They typically have a plant back time. If your spraying in next week or so you would be fine with some 24D because plant back is 14-30 days on brassicas. Unless you have good control over rate on your spray method you could have to much and extend that plant back time to 45 days. Especially since brassicas, turnip would be considered broadleafs. You have a grass issue. Gly will kill what you have. It should kill any broadleafs that the 24D would get. If you want to boost the kill some use Hel-Fire. It will increase the gly’s effectiveness.
As far as broadcast onto sprayed and mowed, yeah, it will work, but nowhere near what discing, broadcast and dragging will get you. And you’ll need to spread about double the seed to get a decent stand.
I’ve been planting brassicas for 25 years. Larger plots- 1-6 acres. 20+ acres total. I prefer to no-till for ease and efficiency. But, tge best brassica success I have comes from discing, dragging, put out seed and drag again. I have always used a drill never broadcast, but my drill method is same as broadcast. I’m drilling grains, I pull small box tubes completely out of the carrier and let brassicas, clover, radishes fall directly on top and have a baseball field drag or chain drag behind drill covering the small seeds.
Soil to seed contact and depth is paramount. That’s why dragging and prepping bed BEFORE planting is important. In a small plot I plot I would definitely take time to do this.
If you are going to disc. Spray gly at 1 1/2 - 2% mixture. Give a few days to a week. Mow it. Wait a week or 2, disc it to turn under the duff. Come back disc, drag, seed, drag on around your target date.
I would avoid any grass/broadleaf specific herbicides. They have soil residual, they can mess you up.

This.... 2,4D will kill any emerging broadleaf for at least 10 days after you spray.

[Smilee]

That picture is a few months old. No way you have ryegrass lush green in July. Its likely browned off and full of weeds.

[Model12]

Model12 - Interested in your method. Have you ever tried this with brassicas?

No. But Did another patch in dove field.......Burn down as stated above........Spread Prozo.......Bush hogged low and slow.....Between the ground litter and tractor tracks. It's coming up........Any seed that will germinate on top of the ground should work this way.

[Model12]

Are you getting as good a coverage this way as you do with discing and then planting? I wouldn't think you would. Considering this for purple tops...

Yes..........Great coverage......Filed is a solid green 6 in high.

[Model12]

Not sure why you would add 24D to gly? I would avoid any broadleaf/ grass specific herbicides. They typically have a plant back time. If your spraying in next week or so you would be fine with some 24D because plant back is 14-30 days on brassicas. Unless you have good control over rate on your spray method you could have to much and extend that plant back time to 45 days. Especially since brassicas, turnip would be considered broadleafs. You have a grass issue. Gly will kill what you have. It should kill any broadleafs that the 24D would get. If you want to boost the kill some use Hel-Fire. It will increase the gly’s effectiveness.
As far as broadcast onto sprayed and mowed, yeah, it will work, but nowhere near what discing, broadcast and dragging will get you. And you’ll need to spread about double the seed to get a decent stand.
I’ve been planting brassicas for 25 years. Larger plots- 1-6 acres. 20+ acres total. I prefer to no-till for ease and efficiency. But, tge best brassica success I have comes from discing, dragging, put out seed and drag again. I have always used a drill never broadcast, but my drill method is same as broadcast. I’m drilling grains, I pull small box tubes completely out of the carrier and let brassicas, clover, radishes fall directly on top and have a baseball field drag or chain drag behind drill covering the small seeds.
Soil to seed contact and depth is paramount. That’s why dragging and prepping bed BEFORE planting is important. In a small plot I plot I would definitely take time to do this.
If you are going to disc. Spray gly at 1 1/2 - 2% mixture. Give a few days to a week. Mow it. Wait a week or 2, disc it to turn under the duff. Come back disc, drag, seed, drag on around your target date.
I would avoid any grass/broadleaf specific herbicides. They have soil residual, they can mess you up.

Ya do it ya way and I'll do it mine......The added nitrogen and 2-4-D to glyp hurts nothing and helps tremendously with pig weed and coffee weed.....Ya can't see the ground in any of my plots.....Every inch is covered and I didn't have to disturb the soil and more dormant weed seed.

I use to do it your way.........But I no way to fight the grass and weeds........So they took over......Burning it later appeared to burn up the seed ....Not many doves came to it....Wish there was chemical ya could spray the weeds and grass in grains............County agent was NO HELP.

[Huntinjunkie]

Ya do it ya way and I'll do it mine......The added nitrogen and 2-4-D to glyp hurts nothing and helps tremendously with pig weed and coffee weed.....Ya can't see the ground in any of my plots.....Every inch is covered and I didn't have to disturb the soil and more dormant weed seed.

I use to do it your way.........But I no way to fight the grass and weeds........So they took over......Burning it later appeared to burn up the seed ....Not many doves came to it....Wish there was chemical ya could spray the weeds and grass in grains............County agent was NO HELP.

I think the benefit to throw and mow is you're not exposing the soil the sun therefore you're retaining moisture. You can seed and fertilize all you want but moisture is the most important part. And you know how predictable rainfall is late August through early September. I start on my clover mid to late August then my grains the beginning of September.

[AnythingFeathers]

Millet will grow on a gravel parking lot. And it grows so fast it usually out competes anything. Not a real good indicator of how a method works. Put enough millet seed out and it will grow.
Not saying it won’t work for original post application. But not best idea. He’s planting a cool weather broadleaf. Your giving a warm weather grass as an example.
He is not trying to plant a dove field. It’s a deer/turkey, whatever food plot.

Your seeding rate in grow and throw will need to be much, much higher. Don’t remove thatch if you mow before seeding- seed never gets to ground in some areas( weeds will grow there). Broadcast before mowing and to much thatch over seeds and it may never break through. Germination rates in grow and throw are “can” be 70-80%-according to the people who sell the seed. But realistically it is 30-50%. If you are only using 20-30 lbs total, and you double that, not a huge expense. But if you have 6-10 of these plots it gets expensive to double your seed cost.

If you disc, it doesn’t need to be to bare dirt if you have a good kill. Just enough to get a good soil to seed contact. Tho smoother you can make seed bed prior to seeding the better brassicas work.

[Huntinjunkie]

I pay $35 for a barrel of oats and $40 for a barrel of rye so I have plenty of seed. I've been using this method for several years now. Before that I would disc, sow and pray for rain. Last year was the first year the plot did poorly and it was for lack of rain.