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Thread: Mounting trolling motor - no access

  1. #1
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    Default Mounting trolling motor - no access

    Boat is a 16’ Havoc and has had the same trolling motor that was mounted by the dealer (or Havoc, not sure) but I’m now wanting to upgrade. To do this, I have to change to a new quick release bracket but the problem is whoever mounted this one bolted the 2 front bolts to the raised lip on the deck, not the actual trolling motor plate, and there’s no access to get under it.

    I have no idea how they got a nut on the bottom of the bolt with no access, but regardless this is the situation. I think I have a solution to remove them, but what would y’all use on the replacement? Cut a hole in the deck to install a small access hatch? Is there a stainless self-tightening bolt I can get at Home Depot or the likes?

    Pictures of current mount.

    IMG_3023.jpg

    IMG_3025.jpg

  2. #2
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    Probably installed with rivnuts. See if you can unscrew what is there.

  3. #3
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    Put a trim bar under there and pull up while backing them out.

  4. #4
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    long wrench or socket through the TM plug hole.

  5. #5
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    The TM “plate” seems to be held on with screws. Remove it.

    See if there is a cutout to access the front bolts. If not you can make one and it will be hidden when reinstalled.

  6. #6
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    Providence
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    Drill new holes in the quick release that mounts to the trolling motor and leave the old puck right where it is.

  7. #7
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    May 2020
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    Had a similar situation with the light bar on my boat.
    Ended up buying a rivnut gun to see if it could work.
    I've since replaced the majority of the self tapping screws on the boat with rivnuts.
    They are awesome!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernWake View Post
    The TM “plate” seems to be held on with screws. Remove it.

    See if there is a cutout to access the front bolts. If not you can make one and it will be hidden when reinstalled.
    This was my guess.

    Also, you can't access it from the big hatch that is behind it? Taking a look through the trolling motor plug hole is a good option as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Birddawg View Post
    I dont know how it was done. For all I know that weird bastard that determined it's gender licked it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kquinn View Post
    Probably installed with rivnuts. See if you can unscrew what is there.
    This.

    Mine's been mounted with stainless Rivnuts since 2010. And, that's sayin' somethin'.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
    _Spc. Thomas Caughman
    1983-2004

    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  10. #10
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    Would Togglers not work?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CUduckreeper View Post
    This was my guess.

    Also, you can't access it from the big hatch that is behind it? Taking a look through the trolling motor plug hole is a good option as well.
    Unfortunately no, there’s a vertical wall to section off the storage area under the deck and there’s only a few inches above it. The farthest I can reach is the rear most screws on the mounting plate, and that’s a stretch.

    Those of you that said it was installed using rivnuts were correct. Honestly didn’t even know that was a thing until this deal.

    Kept checking my phone but never saw anyone replied so I went with drilling the head of the one off, and pushed it and the damaged/bent rivnut through into the foam to its resting place. Just ordered some replacements and will install new ones for the new mounting plate. Thanks for the help y’all.

  12. #12
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    Use stainless rivnuts and not aluminum or other metal. Bolts will seize up if not.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigBrother View Post
    I can eat a bowl of alphabet soup and shit out a thought process better than the vast majority of you clemmings.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goin Coastal View Post
    Use stainless rivnuts and not aluminum or other metal. Bolts will seize up if not.
    And anytime you use stainless nuts and bolts, apply some sort of anti-seize. Stainless steel has a molecular structure that makes it want to bind to other stainless. Once it starts galling, you're screwed. The messy anti-seize goop will work but what we used in the nuclear business was Neolube. Neolube is collodial graphite supended in isopropyl alcohol. It is a very thin liquid that dries instantly and leaves a film of graphite. One small bottle wil cover an entire fast attack submarine.

  14. #14
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    Colloidal graphite... Psh, like that's even a thing.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    Colloidal graphite... Psh, like that's even a thing.
    It's what the color black is made of.

  16. #16
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    he made that shit up
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  17. #17
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    but i've heard submarine people, regardless of the "Ns" in their nnames, are weird.
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  18. #18
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    They definitely know their lubes.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    “Colloidal graphite suspended in isopropanol” is a phrase no submariner will ever NOT be able to remember. It’s good shit.

    I spent a six hour watch in ERUL coating the offgoing ERUL watch’s Mickey Mouse ears pads with neolube every 15 minutes or so. We would be running drills on his watch section so the AC would be turned off multiple times. Great fun.

    When I showed up to relieve him he had graphite rings around his ears, lines down the side of his face that collected at his chest and the front of his t-shirt was a lovely hue of charcoal.

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