ISO table saw

[CurLee]

I know this topic has been beat to death, but I have some specific questions. My dad was a hell of a carpenter, but I’ve made my living with steel and aluminum.

I’m in the market for a compact or portable saw. Primary use is cutting apitong and laminated oak. Pretty hard stuff I assume. Secondary is thin plywood around 3/8”.

What blades should I have on hand for these materials on a 10” saw?

Looking at the SawStop, are there any other mfgs incorporating that technology yet?

I recall reading they can trip on wet or soft materials. How many brake cartridges should I have on hand?

[Saltydog235]

I know this topic has been beat to death, but I have some specific questions. My dad was a hell of a carpenter, but I’ve made my living with steel and aluminum.

I’m in the market for a compact or portable saw. Primary use is cutting apitong and laminated oak. Pretty hard stuff I assume. Secondary is thin plywood around 3/8”.

What blades should I have on hand for these materials on a 10” saw?

Looking at the SawStop, are there any other mfgs incorporating that technology yet?

I recall reading they can trip on wet or soft materials. How many brake cartridges should I have on hand?

General Purpose blade between 40 and 60 teeth max.

Bosch, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Rigid, all of them make a pretty good jobsite saw. SawStop is the only one that I know of with the blade safety. You can lock out the safety but you have to do it every time before you turn the saw on, at least you can on the big cabinet saws, I haven't used the job site. If you aren't carrying it all over the place, a better bet would be a contractor saw, typically more power, heavier and safer. I'd rather use my 5hp cabinet saw than one of those job site things, they bind up and kickback way too much.

[JBK]

I make a living cutting wood. I’d take my track saw over a table saw any day. Just because of how versatile it is. I very rarely take my table saw off the trailer. Swapping a blade takes no time. Just another option.

[CurLee]

Will go back and forth between two shops. I guess it doesn’t HAVE to be mobile. Could slide a creeper under two legs and roll like a wheel barrow. Looking at the sawstop because my guys aren’t carpenters either and missing fingers would make their job much harder, let alone the OSHA visit….

[Kirk]

We have switched all of our table saws to sawstops. It's a no brainer. Brake cartridges are cheaper than stitches or lost fingers. If the brake trips, your blade is toast so keep a spare blade also. Brake cartridges are about 60 or 70 bucks. We keep a couple on hand but Mann tool stocks them. We have the job site saws and I also have the PCS in my shop. You can lock out the brake system to cut wet wood or aluminum. Or if the wood you are cutting might have a nail or staple in it. Fresh (wet) pressure treated lumber will trip the brake. You are welcome to stop by the office and try one out.

[CurLee]

Thanks for the input fellas. I’ve read about high humidity being a problem with the sawstop as well, but I’ve seen a few of your job sites so if you’re having good luck with them then I feel fairly confident. I also see where their lower tier models aren’t the best overall quality as far as a flat top plate, etc, but I’m not building custom cabinets over here.

[charlie horse]

Screw a skil saw to the bottom of a sheet of plywood and sit it on two plastic trashcans. Drink Modelos.

[CurLee]

Zip tie on the trigger? I could make that work.

[fowlshot]

Bringing back the memories of my FIL ripping a fence picket with a skil saw (clearly taking shortcuts and ignoring safety) and getting his fingers with it too. Looked like freshly ground beef, yet by a miracle and a good doctor/PT regained 90% function back and remains a pretty good golfer.

[Saltydog235]

Thanks for the input fellas. I’ve read about high humidity being a problem with the sawstop as well, but I’ve seen a few of your job sites so if you’re having good luck with them then I feel fairly confident. I also see where their lower tier models aren’t the best overall quality as far as a flat top plate, etc, but I’m not building custom cabinets over here.

Job saws are disposable tools, most are pretty tough and reliable though. Use them until they don't work or replace the brushes, you can buy brushes cheap on Amazon for the box store saws, SawStop is typically proprietary stuff and costs a lot. I had to replace the motor in my cabinet saw a few years ago, it was about $800.00 compared to $300 for the old Delta style saw I had.

[Saltydog235]

Screw a skil saw to the bottom of a sheet of plywood and sit it on two plastic trashcans. Drink Modelos.

Crooked stud for a rip fence too?

[walt4dun]

Maybe not what you are looking for but I have done a ton with a DeWalt 8 1/4 compact.