That Goodyear guy must have never had a set of mud tires or even all terrains. Try not rotating a mud tire and see how well that works out.
That Goodyear guy must have never had a set of mud tires or even all terrains. Try not rotating a mud tire and see how well that works out.
Toyota. Every 10,000. First two years free which will only be two of em.
So, I will add to this by asking: If you buy synthetic, does it matter which brand? Is my thinking skewed when I assume the cheapest full synthetic is still way more superior to any conventional oil, so why buy the more expensive?
My 06 F150 5.4 gets Mobil 1 full synthetic every 8,000. I have gone as far as 10,000 but try and change it at 8,000. It now has about 240,000 miles on it, mostly all highway miles at 60-90mph.
Dads Toyota has had 13 oil changes and is at 120k. Granted it’s a car but still goes 10k intervals trouble free.
I go 10k on my 2010 Silverado with the 6.2L and run Mobil 5w30.
We dyno tested engines at work with samples, consult with General Motors oil engineers, and with a well known chemical engineer with nascar. All of the data from that I can assure you 10k miles with a full synthetic oil and good filter you will be fine.
If you want to take a sample of your used oil, speediagnostix will give you a full analysis of your sample.
If you’re still curious there’s plenty of vehicle or oil specific forums to read your heart out with.
The most important part of going 10k miles before oil changes is keep the oil level full on the stick!
Last edited by Gone South; 06-06-2019 at 06:41 PM.
I change my oil every 5k with synthetic. I don’t have to consult with GM engineers, NASCAR people, or send my oil off to be checked. Now my dads Toyota didn’t go 13 oil changes with 120K but I’ve yet to replace an engine on anything Kevin has ever owned...
Seems like a lot of work to me.
More fuel = more boost!!
I sell P66/ Kendall, Mystik/ Citgo, and a private label. We have some heavy duty, over the road customers pushing their intervals out to 65,000 miles using our Kendall Syn Blend and doing oil analysis during dry PM and oil change. I always suggest to customers going with the manufacturers recommendation on interval. It amazes me how many folks out there run their business by get me the cheapest of cheap and we'll change it often approach. It's the blood of the engine and such a small part of a big fleets operating budget, yet they're willing to skimp on it. I also always hear, "All I'll ever use is Rotella 1540, cause my daddy and grand daddy used it and we know our oil.". When I ask which Rotella, I usually get told "I already told ya son, 1540". Come to find out they're using T2 conventional and paying $16/ gallon! I can set them up with the same oil getting 65k miles for half the cost of Rotella (folks at Shell are marketing geniuses, but the consumer pays high dollar for that marketing).
I wonder how some of you get out the bed and tie your own fucking shoes without asking for advice. It’s a oil change, don’t complicate it. If you want to change your own oil every 10k miles then do it
Last edited by KRT; 06-06-2019 at 07:54 PM.
More fuel = more boost!!
We have lots of PCMO (passenger car) quick lube type customers. If you're going there for oil changes, I can almost promise your getting a private label. It's all about margins and they want the cheapest of cheap, as long as it meets the specs.
Meeting the spec is the minimal to get by. I understand using this approach when reselling oil changes. Very few driver by's would stop for an oil change when you're 40% higher than everyone else in town, if you chose an oil that's best for their car. The additive packages and base oil types in most branded oils are much more consistent and superior than private labels. Don't get me wrong, the "meet the spec" oils are good, but not great. On your $300k truck, does it make sense to save $50/ year on oil? The guy driving the truck spends more on his coffee each year than the engine oil cost for that year. Not to mention, better quality oil allows longer intervals (less time the unit's in the shop, but instead on the road or on site making money), different oils can often times increase mpg's, and cuts down on engine wear increasing performance and life.
Tell your friend to call me if he needs help with his oil (cheapest or best) or fuel needs! haha!
Last edited by hickory; 06-06-2019 at 08:23 PM.
I'll buy whatevers cheapest in a white jug. Black jugs are used to hide the debris that settles at the bottom.
My daily driver jeep is 25 yrs old and my truck turned 50 this year...the truck leaks enough oil it changes itself as I top it off, just change the filter every 3 months.
Not to mention, our branded oils offer a warranty. If anything should occur in the engine due to the oil, the supplier will pay. You won't find that in a private label.
Specs are specs
I’ve turned wrenches for a living since 1995 and I’ve never replaced an engine due to off label oil.
Out of curiosity do to you use top tier gasoline? What brand shotgun shell do you you use? I could go on and on. Change your oil every 5k and you wouldn’t have to worry about such petty shit.
More fuel = more boost!!
I wonder how many people fill their vehicles up with the cheapest 87 octane gas they can find? I bet an engineer can argue the difference in fuel quality.
More fuel = more boost!!
I understand and agree with your philosophy. Change it often, you'll be fine. This discussion really isn't an issue in passenger cars. HD fleets are a different animal.
I'm by no means a lube engineer, but do talk to them often. You can get so deep in the weeds with them about "petty shit", such as what every additive known to man does to every wear metal in an engine, gear, etc..
To answer your question, all I use in my boat, 4 wheeler, chainsaw, weed eater, etc is non-eth. Was using 91 non-eth in my boat, but went back to 87. With birds, I shoot middle of the road shells cause I miss so much, but big game I usually invest in quality. Last year I did shoot core lock from Walmart though.
Last edited by hickory; 06-06-2019 at 08:44 PM.
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