Source to learn about bows

[wiz18]

It can get wildly more complicated. If you work on enough of them you will eventually have to swap limbs around, replace cam bearings, etc to get one right. But that should give you an idea.

[banded_mallard]

I’ll add to this by saying you will get a lot of opinions on the right way to tune a bow, so I’ll lay down how I go about it. It’s yielded tiny groups and plenty of pass-throughs on brawny deer, which is the end goal for all this.

First things first is to time the cams with your draw board. This will be time consuming. Make sure your stops are hitting at the same time. Call the bow mfg and get the exact ATA and brace specs. If you have the card it may be listed. Twist up strings and cables to get the bow true. They are very rarely in time out of the box. You can save yourself from having to do this several times over the life of the bow by getting a quality set of strings to replace the factory set from the get-go. Hoyt has the best factory string, but they all stretch more than they should. No one has bitched more at all the mfg about this than me.

bow that is fitted to the shooter, mount the rest (hamskea is the best, don’t bother talking QAD with me) set the arrow dead center of the Berger hole, and 13/16” off the riser. I have a popsicle stick marked at 13/16” to accomplish this, it’s easier than a tape measure.

Use your string and arrow level and tie on a D loop with both levels inside the lines.

Shoot through paper WITH a fletched arrow. R/L tears need to be fixed at the cams by sliding them. Some bows are easier than others. Up/down can be done at the rest or D loop. You want the string dead behind the arrow, so don’t move your rest L/R. Now you’re shooting holes. Mount your peep and all that.

Go shoot a 20y group with field tips. This should be a tiny group.

Back up to 40y and shoot using a poor flying fixed head. I use a QAD exodus full blade. If you are still shooting a small groups and hitting where you are pointing, go kill stuff. If it is constantly missing slightly then make a small rest adjustment. Micro adjust rests are worth the coin for this. All of this is assuming your arrow spine is correct. I have found this method to replicate the exact same flaws as a bare shaft tune. I do not discourage bare shaft tuning, I just do not see the need for it.

I like arrows to be between 430-510gn total. I get them to 15% FOC then stop. Brand doesn’t overly matter. I’ve had equal luck with Easton, victory, and black eagle. Just build them with steel or Ti inserts. You don’t need 600gn+ unless you’re getting on an airplane to go hunt.

Broadheads: shoot what you like.
Sight: HHA, axcel, or UV
Rest: hamskea
Release: Stan, Carter, spot Hogg, UV, B3

I may have missed something, but I Hope this helps if anyone is digging into it. If you need help, boomer is your guy.

No that was spot on and nice to see someone who dislikes qad. I prefer hamskey as well.

[banded_mallard]

To solve all your issues, repeat the following:

Victory RIP TKOs
AAE max stealth vanes
G5 Megameats
QAD rest

Sight in and go kill shit.

The new hlr over the rip tko’s in my opinion. That’s what I switch from and I am impressed.

[b-stick]

The new hlr over the rip tko’s in my opinion. That’s what I switch from and I am impressed.

Haven’t shot em yet. Still shooting the TKOs I have left over from last year. Hell my bow is still in pieces.

[bbhntr48]

I’ll add to this by saying you will get a lot of opinions on the right way to tune a bow, so I’ll lay down how I go about it. It’s yielded tiny groups and plenty of pass-throughs on brawny deer, which is the end goal for all this.

First things first is to time the cams with your draw board. This will be time consuming. Make sure your stops are hitting at the same time. Call the bow mfg and get the exact ATA and brace specs. If you have the card it may be listed. Twist up strings and cables to get the bow true. They are very rarely in time out of the box. You can save yourself from having to do this several times over the life of the bow by getting a quality set of strings to replace the factory set from the get-go. Hoyt has the best factory string, but they all stretch more than they should. No one has bitched more at all the mfg about this than me.

bow that is fitted to the shooter, mount the rest (hamskea is the best, don’t bother talking QAD with me) set the arrow dead center of the Berger hole, and 13/16� off the riser. I have a popsicle stick marked at 13/16� to accomplish this, it’s easier than a tape measure.

Use your string and arrow level and tie on a D loop with both levels inside the lines.

Shoot through paper WITH a fletched arrow. R/L tears need to be fixed at the cams by sliding them. Some bows are easier than others. Up/down can be done at the rest or D loop. You want the string dead behind the arrow, so don’t move your rest L/R. Now you’re shooting holes. Mount your peep and all that.

Go shoot a 20y group with field tips. This should be a tiny group.

Back up to 40y and shoot using a poor flying fixed head. I use a QAD exodus full blade. If you are still shooting a small groups and hitting where you are pointing, go kill stuff. If it is constantly missing slightly then make a small rest adjustment. Micro adjust rests are worth the coin for this. All of this is assuming your arrow spine is correct. I have found this method to replicate the exact same flaws as a bare shaft tune. I do not discourage bare shaft tuning, I just do not see the need for it.

I like arrows to be between 430-510gn total. I get them to 15% FOC then stop. Brand doesn’t overly matter. I’ve had equal luck with Easton, victory, and black eagle. Just build them with steel or Ti inserts. You don’t need 600gn+ unless you’re getting on an airplane to go hunt.

Broadheads: shoot what you like.
Sight: HHA, axcel, or UV
Rest: hamskea
Release: Stan, Carter, spot Hogg, UV, B3

I may have missed something, but I Hope this helps if anyone is digging into it. If you need help, boomer is your guy.

Serious knowledge here. Thanks for sharing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FEETDOWN]

Wiz, Stick, BM etc, talk to me about rests. I've only had QAD's but I know Hamskea makes quality stuff. Nic, have you seen failures with QAD's or you just like limb driven over cable driven?

[Glenn]

My bow guy comes by the house, picks up my rig and about a week or more later it magically shows back up tuned and ready to rock.

[FEETDOWN]

My bow guy comes by the house, picks up my rig and about a week or more later it magically shows back up tuned and ready to rock.

Not everyone has DVM/Dentite money bro. No need to be all uppity

[wiz18]

The new hlr over the rip tko’s in my opinion. That’s what I switch from and I am impressed.

I went back and forth between the HLR and the 5.0. My only gripe with the victory product with an outer weave is when you have to remove an insert they usually desheath since it is a multi piece arrow. I think they are great arrows, but not being to nock an insert out if one gets bent is somewhat of a pain. That's the only reason i moved on from TKO's. The HlR does come with a great stock insert, so im glad to see a mfg not supply something that should have been melted down for soda cans.

I just built 2 dozen Easton 5.0 .300sp. 28.25" c2c. Ethics titanium 25gn HITs. Easton collars. 125gn heads. 456gn total at 15%foc. They are shooting well.

[Coastal Woodie]

I have a couple QADs and a Hamskea, both have been great. I move the cam until bare shafts are shooting a bullet hole with the rest at center shot. Then I make minor rest adjustments until a fixed blade flies straight.

Mechanical broadheads are for killing does and little bucks.

[Coastal Woodie]

I went back and forth between the HLR and the 5.0. My only gripe with the victory product with an outer weave is when you have to remove an insert they usually desheath since it is a multi piece arrow. I think they are great arrows, but not being to nock an insert out if one gets bent is somewhat of a pain. That's the only reason i moved on from TKO's. The HlR does come with a great stock insert, so im glad to see a mfg not supply something that should have been melted down for soda cans.

I just built 2 dozen Easton 5.0 .300sp. 28.25" c2c. Ethics titanium 25gn HITs. Easton collars. 125gn heads. 456gn total at 15%foc. They are shooting well.

I'm shooting a similar setup with the TKO's. 300 spine, 25gn Iron Will stainless HIT insert, 25 gn Iron Will collar and 125gn head. 486gn total arrow weight. Broadheads have been sharpened and ready for the 15th.

[FEETDOWN]

Mechanical broadheads are for killing does and little bucks.

We should start a mech vs fixed thread

[Coastal Woodie]

We should start a mech vs fixed thread

Don't get Bstick started on megameats.

[FEETDOWN]

Don't get Bstick started on megameats.

He loves meat, this is no surprise....

[Glenn]

Not everyone has DVM/Dentite money bro. No need to be all uppity

Some folks have cement ponds, some have high end bows.

[wiz18]

Wiz, Stick, BM etc, talk to me about rests. I've only had QAD's but I know Hamskea makes quality stuff. Nic, have you seen failures with QAD's or you just like limb driven over cable driven?

I'm a hamskea snob, mainly because I have never seen one fail out of a pretty large sample size. I have seen a bunch of QAD failures, but 90% of those are from a BS setup job. I like the method of timing a limb driven a lot better than a cable driven. If you put both in a draw board to set up its pretty clear which method of activation is the cats pajamas. The cable driven either falls too early, or too late unless you get it just right, then your cable stretches and you're back to fletching contact. I like the rest to cradle the arrow for about 60% of the shot cycle, and that's pretty easy to get right on a limb driver.

That's my take. A lot of guys like the QAD and they will kill a truck load of deer with them. But if I am spending my money, it'll be on a hamskea. If you arent having issues with your qad I wouldn't lose sleep over it. They do work fine some of the time.

[wiz18]

We should start a mech vs fixed thread

The data QDMA collected says a mech is better. I don’t have an opinion. Both will do the job. I always have both in the quiver. I killed a 155” with a grim reaper and skipped a QAD exodus off a 175”s backstrap last year (you were a good shoulder to cry on). Neither would have yielded a different outcome. Made of good metal and accurate af are all I concern myself with.

[banded_mallard]

I went back and forth between the HLR and the 5.0. My only gripe with the victory product with an outer weave is when you have to remove an insert they usually desheath since it is a multi piece arrow. I think they are great arrows, but not being to nock an insert out if one gets bent is somewhat of a pain. That's the only reason i moved on from TKO's. The HlR does come with a great stock insert, so im glad to see a mfg not supply something that should have been melted down for soda cans.

I just built 2 dozen Easton 5.0 .300sp. 28.25" c2c. Ethics titanium 25gn HITs. Easton collars. 125gn heads. 456gn total at 15%foc. They are shooting well.

I personally have never had an issue when using hot melt for inserts. But that’s my preferred method.

[Gut_Pile]

The hot melt that podium sells has been great for me with iron will hit inserts

[Glenn]

I use the Bohning cool flex for inserts on my Grizzly Stiks. If one gets bent I just put a little heat to a field point and they will pop out without heating up the carbon too much.