Rifle zero 101

[CWPINST]

OK, this is pretty basic, and I am sure it is elementary for most, but after a trip to the range today where I saw 2 guys trying to check their zero, I realized that not everyone really knows how to do this correctly........and there is more than one way.

First is mounting the scope. Everything needs to be secure. As far as mounting systems are concerned, there are a number out there that will do the job. Some are better than others. I prefer steel one piece Weaver or Picatinney bases and Burris Signature rings. The old windage adjustable Redfield/Leupold base is one of the weakest designs but even it often works well. When mounting the scope, it is VERY important to make sure that it is in square with the rifle. You can do this using a couple of string levels and a small flat bar placed on the base. Place a string level on the flat bar and another on the top of the elevation cap. Level them up and tighten the rings. It may take a few tries because tightning the rings often causes the scope to rotate slightly. Make sure your scope is not canted. Too many folks mount the gun then try to level the scope while holding the rifle. This practically guarantees a canted scope and will screw you up big time at long range.

Bore sighting with a bolt action is easy. I never stick a steel bore sighter in the end of my barrels. The condition of the rifling is too important, especially at the muzzle. You can usually get within a few inches at 100 yards by eyeballing through the bore then adjusting the scope.

When you get ready to fire that first shot, IT IS CRITICAL that you have a good rest. The guys at the range today refused to use a good rest. They said that they didn't have a rest in their deer stand, so why bother with one on the range. I have heard a lot of folks over the years say that. The problem, is that there are 2 primary sources of shooting errors. (1) Mechanical....i.e. the rifle, and (2) Human......the shooter. You have to figure out the mechanical part FIRST. That means ruling out as much shooter error as is possible. That is why you need a good solid but fairly forgiving rest, like sandbags, front and rear., and a good place to shoot, like a solid bench, not the hood of a pickup truck. Also never allow the barrel to contact ANYTHING, even your fingers, while firing. This can and will throw a shot, especially if the barrel is contacting something hard. See what the rifle can do before worrying about what you can do.

If your scope has parallax adjustment, dial it out first then focus the scope. It must be done in this order because parallax affects focus. Pay no attention to the yardage setting on the PA. This is for reference only and is seldom even remotely accurate. When you find where you are parallax free at a given range, mark it on your scope with a pencil.

When you take a shot, see where it impacts the target. Hold the rifle very solidly and have a friend if possible adjust the scope where he "walks" the reticle to the bullet hole. Not all scopes will track as they are supposed to. Some move more than 1/4 inch per click and some will actually jump as you dial it. If yours jumps, crank the elevation and windage adjustments back and forth a good many times to smooth things out. Dial it back to where you started and take another shot then fine tune with several shots to verify. Always allow the rifle to cool completely between groups. Make sure the cold bore shot is on the money. One thing to remember about scope adjustment is that many scopes, especially older Leupolds have some lash in the adjustment. What you need to do is to go a few clicks (3-4) past where you want the bullet to hit and then come back those few clicks. It is better to finish with the last few clicks tightning against the bias spring(s).

Remember, if you change loads, or even boxes of the "same" ammo, you need to check your zero. It is quite normal to see a several inch shift from load to load. The rifle should be pillar bedded and the barrel floated. This will minimize the impact of wood movement with temperature and humidity. If you have a synthetic stock, this is less of a concern. Shoot occasionally through the season to verify that everything is OK. It gives you some practice and confidence.

Enough for now.......