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Thread: F150 rough idle and stalls at red light?

  1. #1
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    Default F150 rough idle and stalls at red light?

    2016 f150 5.0

    Every now and then notice rpm’s get low while sitting in park or while in drive while stopped along with a rough idle. Today it did this again and actually shut off. No CEL.

    Anyone else experienced similar? Will gladly take it to A2Z but I can’t replicate the rough idle so I hate to waste their time.
    Last edited by wdhigh; 02-28-2024 at 01:49 PM.

  2. #2
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    Ive got a 2013 Explorer doing the exact same thing. Only stalled once. Will be following along to see what answers you get.

  3. #3
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    My 2013 5.0 F150 was doing the same thing a while back. A mechanic at church suggested cleaning the carbon buildup off the throttle body. Worked like a charm. No problems for a year or so now.

    Last edited by Scattergun; 02-28-2024 at 02:36 PM.

  4. #4
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    Check your oil level, if low top it off and see if it stops

    VCT solenoids are the most common that won't set a CEL

    Clean throttle body
    Last edited by KRT; 02-28-2024 at 02:31 PM.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  5. #5
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    My 2015 2.0T Escape (123k) is doing something similar.

    At idle, it'll shudder. It is a constant rhythm where the shutter starts about every 13 seconds. The RPMs drop for about 1-2 seconds, then go back to normal.

    It's got a fresh full synthetic oil change. I have a new air filter sitting by the door (hoping it may fix the problem). If that doesn't do, I reckon ole KRT will be the answer.

    As an aside, when I took the vehicle to Midas for oil (convenience due to location/schedule), they told me I had swollen lug nuts. I had to Google that one. They tried to sell me new nuts. Dude on the phone said $14.95. I asked if that was per tire, and he responded, "Per lug nut." I had to hold back my laughter...

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    Man I just started going down the VCT solenoid rabbit hole. One theory I just read stated problems start at around 3500 miles after an oil change. Any truth to this? Coincidentally I am at 3500 miles since my last change using 5k intervals using Mobil 1 full synthetic.

    Appreciate the feedback.

  7. #7
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    I've done more VCT than anything

    if 3500 miles is true, then it's a viscosity thing. Try a bottle of lucas. Never thought of oil thinning out.

    Seems like the 5.0's have had some oil burning issues 2014-17. They do crazy things with low oil
    More fuel = more boost!!

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    You got ball joint issues and you know it.

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    I've had those same symptoms with a dirty EGR valve...I think it stands for Exhaust Gas Regulator value but the E really stands for Expensive. Depending on the engine, you might be able to get your hands on it and either clean it or just replace it with a new one. Clean the piping/hoses too, though.
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    Change or clean pcv valve and remove and clean throttle body, also clean maf sensor. It will cost you one spray can and one hour of work. Then let it idle for 20min for computer to recalibrate.


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  11. #11
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    My 2002 work truck does the same thing I ain’t been able to figure it out yet. Let it sit a year and cranked it to move it and the damn transmission won’t shift into gear what the hell would cause that from sitting
    "I'm just a victim of a circumstance"

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    I added a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer (the thick stuff) to my 5.0 Coyote Gen 3
    and haven't heard a cam phaser cold start rattle or added a drop of oil to it in a month.
    I think the oil is too thin and doesn't leave enough up top when it sits for awhile and drains down.
    If the throttle body gets a crusty little lip on it, it won't seat closed properly and will mess with an idle bad.
    Eeezy Peezy to take the air intake duct off and spray throttle body cleaner on the "butterfly" while it's running.
    I put a little on a rag and gently wipe the edge of the throttle plate and the spot where it seats.
    Tell me if I am wrong Kevin, I always learn from your posts
    Last edited by ecu1984; 02-28-2024 at 09:25 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    I added a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer (the thick stuff) to my 5.0 Coyote Gen 3
    and haven't heard a cam phaser cold start rattle or added a drop of oil to it in a month.
    I think the oil is too thin and doesn't leave enough up top when it sits for awhile and drains down.
    If the throttle body gets a crusty little lip on it, it won't seat closed properly and will mess with an idle bad.
    Eeezy Peezy to take the air intake duct off and spray throttle body cleaner on the "butterfly" while it's running.
    I put a little on a rag and gently wipe the edge of the throttle plate and the spot where it seats.
    Tell me if I am wrong Kevin, I always learn from your posts
    Nah, you’re pretty spot on.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  14. #14
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    Code P0012.

    Guessing I’ll be getting in touch with Chandler tomorrow.

    Wishing is was 2017 again, I’d just go buy a new one.
    Last edited by wdhigh; 03-13-2024 at 05:53 AM.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wdhigh View Post
    Man I just started going down the VCT solenoid rabbit hole. One theory I just read stated problems start at around 3500 miles after an oil change. Any truth to this? Coincidentally I am at 3500 miles since my last change using 5k intervals using Mobil 1 full synthetic.

    Appreciate the feedback.
    got a '19 w/ the 5.0 motor and i started having these issues 1k miles past the 60k mile powertrain warranty expiration. read theres a big class action lawsuit pending against ford. dealer did some bullshit fix where the swapped out the oil dipstick but never addressed the issue.

    running 5w20 synthetic blend and have to refill 2 quarts of oil in b/w oil changes at 5k miles. i had a local mechanic do something w/ some camshafts or camrods idk for a couple grand and it temporarily solved the issue, but truck started shuttering again recently.

    cars just aren't made a fuck anymore with all these epa regulations. really think you're best off just buying an extended warranty and driving it until it expires and selling the hunk of shit
    "JUST BECAUSE I AM NOT A GOOD SPELLER DOESN'T MEAN MY JEAN POLL IS GONNA BE BAD."
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziggy View Post
    got a '19 w/ the 5.0 motor and i started having these issues 1k miles past the 60k mile powertrain warranty expiration. read theres a big class action lawsuit pending against ford. dealer did some bullshit fix where the swapped out the oil dipstick but never addressed the issue.

    running 5w20 synthetic blend and have to refill 2 quarts of oil in b/w oil changes at 5k miles. i had a local mechanic do something w/ some camshafts or camrods idk for a couple grand and it temporarily solved the issue, but truck started shuttering again recently.

    cars just aren't made a fuck anymore with all these epa regulations. really think you're best off just buying an extended warranty and driving it until it expires and selling the hunk of shit
    So Ford has a reflash for the engine braking function (variable timing thing) and a different oil dipstick. Neither fixes it.
    My buddy moved from Mt Pleasant to lake Lure. Those mountain roads obviously caused the engine to “brake” more than the coastal flat roads. His oil consumption went out the roof. At 99k he called Ford customer service and they replaced his engine.

    The fix is a short block. The piston rings are seized.

    Get an extended warranty and bring it to me
    More fuel = more boost!!

  18. #18
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    Mine is running fine after the solenoids got replaced by A2Z.

    As far as oil consumption, I don’t even notice it until it gets close to a change interval “5k miles”. Even then it’s hardly noticeable on the stick.

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