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Thread: Tanning pelts

  1. #1
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    Default Tanning pelts

    I am sure this has been discussed… I have an otter pelt that I would like to Tan at home into a soft, pliable fur finished product. There are quite a few videos, methods, etc available online so it seems a bit confusing. I am happy to put time into doing it but do not want to spend a ton on products, have an excess of chemicals laying around or put a bunch of time into a pelt and end up ruining it. Thus far I have skinned the otter out and am ready for next steps. I will get a fleshing knife and have a fleshing board. The otter was given to me so I didn't really have time to plan ahead. I acquired the otter Sat night and put it in a refrigerator, cleaned the fur up with cold water and dried excess moisture on the fur. I then skinned it by cutting from rear feet to vent, and cut all along ventral midline of tail. I then rolled the fur from tail to head and separated it from the rest of the carcass. Once removed I loosely rolled it on itself fur side out and have it in a paper bag in a freezer until I get a gameplan and supplies.
    Thanks in advance.






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  2. #2
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    An otter hat would be bad ass.

  3. #3
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    Loincloth

  4. #4
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    Everything you need is right there in his skull. Hardest part is breaking the hide if you want it pliable

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by CurLee View Post
    Everything you need is right there in his skull. Hardest part is breaking the hide if you want it pliable
    Read about that after I disposed of it… lesson learned. From reading it sounds like breaking through hide takes some work. Not a problem as long as I don’t ruin it in the process.


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  6. #6
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    That size hide shouldn't be too bad. Attach a steel cable to a tree or pole with some slack and pull the hide back and forth hair-in. Just make sure to work the edges well but carefully.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by CurLee View Post
    That size hide shouldn't be too bad. Attach a steel cable to a tree or pole with some slack and pull the hide back and forth hair-in. Just make sure to work the edges well but carefully.
    Any insight on the preservation process?


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highstrung View Post
    Loincloth
    THIS. I was also thinking of a cod warmer.
    "If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die, I want to go where they went."
    Will Rogers

  9. #9
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    Merkin

  10. #10
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    Make an old fashioned cod piece, cave man style
    Listen to your elders. Not because they are always right but because they have more experiences of being wrong.

    "We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give" Sir Winston Churchill

  11. #11
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    Put it in a freezer bag. The paper bag will pull moisture from the skin and cause freezer burn if it's going to be in the freezer for longer than a couple of days.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Islandguy85 View Post
    Any insight on the preservation process?


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    I brain tan almost exclusively, so I don't have much input on chemical processes. I did do one chemical tan years ago but I didn't use a kit and it was a hair-off. I think aluminum sulfate was one of the products, sourced from a plant nursery. You can use any brains by the way, like cow brain if you can find it in a market.

    I will say to start the breaking process after fleshing and before the tanning process.

  13. #13
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    Go to McKenzie Taxidermy Supply's website. They have an all-in-one tanning solution that will take care of the chemical process. Like CurLee said, the breaking process is the hard (labor intensive) part.

    I made a squirrel skin hat (I think I posted it on here) 15 years ago. It took 8 or so squirrels. I tanned them with egg yolk in place of brains as I read that method online somewhere at the time. Smoked it with punky wood after I broke then skins. I still wear that hat 8-10 times per year hunting when it is cold enough for my head to not sweat. It'd take a lot of eggs to tan an otter though.

  14. #14
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    I did a chemical tan of a deer hide back in high school for a buddy of mine. He still has it and it's soft as can be. I was working at a taxidermist at the time and had access and experience on a fleshing beam. Getting that skin as thin as possible without cutting holes in it will make the breaking process easier. The kit I used I just bought from Cabelas.
    Living in Moncks Corner but looking forward to moving back to the West Coast in 2020 where there are more ducks and less duck hunters!! LOL

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