Off The Shelf, Or .308 Build?

[USMCsilver]

I own a 24 year old Tikka in 7mm Mag in a synthetic stock (not sure of the model); it was a gift from my (then) fiance.

Having said that, I've never bought a "hunting rifle" (except for the 300BO I just built-up).

I'd like to get a .308 that would allow some long distance fun (1-2 times a year) and something that I could use in a stand.

Budget for the rifle is ~$1,500.

Two I'm looking pretty hard at are:

https://choose.tikka.fi/usa/code/TF1T29HL105MTB (20" barrel, 1:11 twist)

https://www.bergara.online/us/rifles...ess/hmr-rifle/ (20" barrel, 1:10 twist) 1st choice

I have a friend trying to convince me to seek out an 18" barrel with a slightly faster twist rate, but I'm coming up empty handed.

My only real requirements are: threaded, adjustable LOP, and adjustable cheekweld.

Besides the 2 above, do y'all have any insight? I figured if an 18" rifle with proper twist could potentially hit 800m targets, I'd put some effort into finding one. But if 20" would be more suitable, I'll sacrifice those extra 2". This will be a host for a SiCo Omega 36M.

Of course, 3 other options would be:
1. Get all the parts and build something.
2. Find something used that's been built.
3. Have someone build a rifle (however, I'm not sure that could be done for $1,500)

I'd appreciate any advice concerning twist vs length vs distance.

Also, if you know of any other rifles I should look at (that meet my requirements) to please post them up.


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[Saltydog235]

Begara Special Purpose Short Barrel has a 16.5" barrel IIRC in the .308, 18" in the 6.5CM

Think Savage has a Model 10 with an 18", Ruger American Hunter has a 16.5", Christianson has a 16.5".

The Begara above is hard to beat, especially for the money.

[Tha Dick]

Get the Begara and rock out!!

[USMCsilver]

Get the Begara and rock out!!

Good call.

I think I'll just grab this over the weekend: https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-...20in/p/1737299

Veteran discount will shave another 5% off the price.

If I don't like the length suppressed, I'll have it cut to 18ish. Seems like only a 45-75fps decrease over 2", depending on load.

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[SilverFox]

I have the Bergara Wilderness Terrain. I liked the feel of stock on it a little better. I have the 7 Rem Mag. It will shoot sub moa with heavier bullets. Still working up to see what it's going to prefer. Right now I'm shooting 168s. The 155 was a moa round and the 162 ELD X was about the same. It has the 24" barrel.

[Steelin' Ducks]

You seem to conveniently remember my number and other times forget it.

[USMCsilver]

I was set on having Patrick ordering me the Bergara HMR Wilderness, but I ended up coming across a pretty good deal on a Sako S20 Precision 24" .308 up near Raleigh. I didn't really want a 24" barrel, but, again - it was hard to pass on something that looked like it hadn't been taken out of the box & included a few extras.

My Sako base/rings rings came the other day & I took today off so I could sign for the damn FedEx box holding my new scope.

Y'all gave me too many damn opinions on optics, and the more I read on a few other forums, the more frustrated I became!

I settled on a Trijicon Credo HX 2.5-15x56. I'm gonna throw some lead over the weekend. I'm excited to see how this thing performs (as I've never owned a "nice" bolt gun, nor a scope even near this price).

I do have one stupid question - the damned rubber from the scope cap is touching the barrel; well, not just "touching" but is somewhat squished between the barrel and scope. I'm assuming it won't make any difference at 300m? If I ever get the opportunity for 800m, would this noticeably affect accuracy? I'm hoping the barrel may just melt this little portion & the problem solves itself

Here's the final product:


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[PharmHunter]

It's already been said but get the Bergara and roll.

Nevemind lol...editing as I just saw you last post. Very nice!

[Saltydog235]

I was set on having Patrick ordering me the Bergara HMR Wilderness, but I ended up coming across a pretty good deal on a Sako S20 Precision 24" .308 up near Raleigh. I didn't really want a 24" barrel, but, again - it was hard to pass on something that looked like it hadn't been taken out of the box & included a few extras.

My Sako base/rings rings came the other day & I took today off so I could sign for the damn FedEx box holding my new scope.

Y'all gave me too many damn opinions on optics, and the more I read on a few other forums, the more frustrated I became!

I settled on a Trijicon Credo HX 2.5-15x56. I'm gonna throw some lead over the weekend. I'm excited to see how this thing performs (as I've never owned a "nice" bolt gun, nor a scope even near this price).

I do have one stupid question - the damned rubber from the scope cap is touching the barrel; well, not just "touching" but is somewhat squished between the barrel and scope. I'm assuming it won't make any difference at 300m? If I ever get the opportunity for 800m, would this noticeably affect accuracy? I'm hoping the barrel may just melt this little portion & the problem solves itself

Here's the final product:


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Take the scope caps off. It is causing contact between the optic and the barrel, you will probably not be able to zero the scope or get the best grouping out of the rifle with that contact.

[USMCsilver]

Take the scope caps off. It is causing contact between the optic and the barrel, you will probably not be able to zero the scope or get the best grouping out of the rifle with that contact.

Damn it. I use caps on all my scopes to keep them clean.

I'll literally have to cut it off, at this point. I dunno if I over-torqued the screws, or what, but that scope ain't coming outta those rings without a drill press.

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[Saltydog235]

Damn it. I use caps on all my scopes to keep them clean.

I'll literally have to cut it off, at this point. I dunno if I over-torqued the screws, or what, but that scope ain't coming outta those rings without a drill press.

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Ring screws are typically 18-25inlbs. Over torquing them will damage to scope.

[USMCsilver]

Ring screws are typically 18-25inlbs. Over torquing them will damage to scope.

I used their factory, German stamped T10 torx key. I didn't totally wrench-down on the things when I was screwing them in, but I was shocked when I couldn't back the screws out. Things were beginning to strip.

I may hit with some Kroil for an overnight soak.

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[USMCsilver]

Take the scope caps off. It is causing contact between the optic and the barrel, you will probably not be able to zero the scope or get the best grouping out of the rifle with that contact.

I actually think I'll put a torch to some piano wire and just fix the problem spot.

Seems like it should work as intended.

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[trash2]

Get tally rings or google it but was just reading issues w Sako rings and this

[Carolina Counsel]

I used their factory, German stamped T10 torx key. I didn't totally wrench-down on the things when I was screwing them in, but I was shocked when I couldn't back the screws out. Things were beginning to strip.

I may hit with some Kroil for an overnight soak.

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Use a wrench that gives you the pounds of torque when you’re working with scopes. FAT wrench is an example.

[Saltydog235]

I used their factory, German stamped T10 torx key. I didn't totally wrench-down on the things when I was screwing them in, but I was shocked when I couldn't back the screws out. Things were beginning to strip.

I may hit with some Kroil for an overnight soak.

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I use a Weaver Torque driver and Wheeler level system when setting a scope. All rings have different settings too. Always apply a drop of blue locktite to the screws as well. Armstronging a new optic is a good way to turn it into a worthless hunk of junk. And base to ring connections are a completely different torque spec. Some 65inlb plus. You also have to alternate on a zig zag pattern ever so slowly or you’ll get it canted or off center. Doesn’t take much longer to do it right but it’ll save you when you go to zero in.

[Huntinjunkie]

Looks to me like you need some taller mounts and a fat wrench.

[USMCsilver]

I use a Weaver Torque driver and Wheeler level system when setting a scope. All rings have different settings too. Always apply a drop of blue locktite to the screws as well. Armstronging a new optic is a good way to turn it into a worthless hunk of junk. And base to ring connections are a completely different torque spec. Some 65inlb plus. You also have to alternate on a zig zag pattern ever so slowly or you’ll get it canted or off center. Doesn’t take much longer to do it right but it’ll save you when you go to zero in.

Yeah, I did zig-zag, and didn't think I turned too tight; blue Loctite was used on base/ring connection, but not the ring screws because there were 6 per ring. Doesn't matter now. It's level, relief is where I want it, and I cut the cap off.

I'll just use the Trijicon neoprene coat they sent.

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[Palmetto Bug]

Put a scope shade on and don't worry about a lens cap for the objective. The lens will be so far recessed that it will be out of danger of scratches. The shade is also very nice to prevent flares when you need to shoot toward a setting sun, not to mention it keeps the lens dryer when you hunt in the rain.

[USMCsilver]

Put a scope shade on and don't worry about a lens cap for the objective. The lens will be so far recessed that it will be out of danger of scratches. The shade is also very nice to prevent flares when you need to shoot toward a setting sun, not to mention it keeps the lens dryer when you hunt in the rain.

I've considered that idea, too, but I haven't easily found one yet for this scope.

However, I somewhat assume a 56mm shade is somewhat universal - unless companies get stupid with different thread pitches.

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