"Only accurate rifles are interesting " - Col. Townsend Whelen
I swore on all that is Holy that I'd never put ANYTHING of certain brands on any of my weapons, but after LOTS of reading and research, I caved.
As this (Ruger 300BO) isn't a weapon that I'd see myself ever using in a life or death matter, I couldn't argue with the price:review ratio.
Plus, I really wanted to see if $20 rings would work... Hell - even ALL of the rings on my 22's are more than double that!
https://www.opticsplanet.com/leapers...h-profile.html
(As an aside - I checked out those Talley rings. They sure are proud of the burnt bronze paint job. However, that may be an option if these rings don't work as intended.)
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[QUOTE=Swamp Rat;3108942]This.
Also, I took a class from some former and current Army sniper dudes - they showed a method where they actually DID level the gun then used a level on the scope. BUT... they removed the elevation cap and used the actual "stud" of the elevation adjustment.[/QUO
Same here. I mount the lower half of the rings and the lock my gun down on the bench and level the receiver with a torpedo level and double check the rings for level. ( they should be level same as the receiver)
Put the scope on and install the top half of the rings leaving them loose enough to set eye relief and level the cross hairs by sight to where I think they're level. Then I use the torpedo level on the turrets (cap removed) to double check then tighten them down.
Pull the bolt and visually check POA thru the bore and compare it to the POA of the cross hairs. If everything looks good I shoot paper at 25 yards and make adjustments until I'm happy then go to 100 yards.
If everything works like it should, it only takes 3-5 shots to get 1" high at 100 yards.
Disclaimer: I'm not a long range shooter. Average deer kill is 125 yards or less, many under 75 yards. I've probably killed 2 deer over the 200 yard mark.
I set up my rifles 1" high at 100 yards and it's all I need for the type deer hunting I do
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