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Thread: No till

  1. #1
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    Default No till

    Any of y’all ever tried the no till approach for food plots and what were the results.


  2. #2
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    I just use corn

  3. #3
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    Yes I have used it for last 3 years. I planted clover in fall and used oats as a cover crop to get established. It works, I am guessing but I think germination is reduced by 25% or so. But if getting equipment to location is an issue, this is better than nothing


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  4. #4
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    I've thought about it but been hesitant. I've always disced and had success I'm afraid if it fails I have no plot. I usually plant buckwheat in April for weed suppression I may try it then.

  5. #5
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    I have been doing this for about 10 years. Dr. Grant Woods has a bunch of YouTube info as does Jeff Sturgis... It works.
    "If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die, I want to go where they went."
    Will Rogers

  6. #6
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    Sasha - How does it work on different soils…clay, sandy, etc?

  7. #7
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    I like the concept, but I agree I think you will end up with a reduced germination.

    What the farmers do is a good bit different.

    I dont believe he highlighted the fact you need to spray and mow enough. For it to work you need to start with a level playing field. He mentions it but doesnt hammer it home.
    Yup, he's crazy...


    like a fox. The dude may be coming in a little too hard and crazy but 90% of everything he says is correct.

    Sort of like Toof. But way smarter.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by welltaut View Post
    Sasha - How does it work on different soils…clay, sandy, etc?

    I plant buckwheat for a cover crop and broadcast cowpeas or greens into into the standing crop in July (peas) or August (greens)... then drag over the buckwheat to make a mulch layer. Sometimes I will come back and do a light (2oz per gal) of gly to terminate the cover crop.

    ALL your planting/broadcasting needs to be right before a SUBSTANTIAL RAIN - preferably for several days.

    I then come back over the greens after 3 weeks, and broadcast wheat or oats or cereal rye. Sometimes I will layer another load after another month if there is a lot of pressure on the plot.

    If you plant a good enough wheat stand, you can broadcast peas/beans directly in the standing stuff and do a drag harrow over the top for a great no till warm season plot - it may last until October...

    Not much grows in sand.
    Last edited by Sasha and Abby; 01-22-2023 at 09:19 AM.
    "If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die, I want to go where they went."
    Will Rogers

  9. #9
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    As Sasha mentioned, for best results equipment is needed. A drill would be best.


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  10. #10
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    I have watched many of Jeff Sturgis' videos. He always has beautiful, thick stands of buckwheat that he broadcasts brassicas into so it got me thinking... This guy can't be in a place with a high deer density or his deer must not eat buckwheat. I tried his method anyway, but it does not work for me because no matter how thick I broadcast the buckwheat in a month the deer have it too thin to broadcast into.


    Dr. Woods uses the "buffalo" method which is the same except he uses a drill. Works great, if you have a drill. He plants forage soy beans then drills brassicas into them for the fall.


    As for growing in sand. I have seen videos where people use these methods for a few year and it helps build up the soil a great deal. I have a tract that I have been working on for a few years now and the soil has changed a good bit. I tried buckwheat and sunn hemp, but the deer just mowed it down so what I do is plant a mix of clovers, oats, and rye in the fall. It may not be the best practice, but I leave it alone all summer unless I need to apply lime then I till it whenever I’m ready to plant for the fall. Doing this the past few years has put tons of organic matter into the soil. The sand is now more of “dirt”, if that makes any sense.

  11. #11
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    You can also use the "Buffalo Method" with standing wheat, oats, rye or millet, to varying degrees... Or, you can just allow some of the native grass grow up, broadcast seed into it, then cut or crimp it, and then spray it with gly... lots of ways to do the same end result.

    The most important thing is to get good seed to soil contact just before a big rain.
    Last edited by Sasha and Abby; 01-22-2023 at 10:25 AM.
    "If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die, I want to go where they went."
    Will Rogers

  12. #12
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    Depends on the soil type a lot ... I'm in the clay land ... Tried it a number of times, doesn't get the results I'm looking for here.

  13. #13
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    we got some sandy but mostly clay soil. The clay is hard as a brick if not tilled or manipulated in some manor. The plots we have in clay and sand seem to get better over time and build up a better soil. We spray, mow, and lightly disc. Taking the discing out saves a grand. Go. A try his method on a few plots
    Last edited by centurian; 01-22-2023 at 10:59 AM.

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