24 Volt Electrical Help

[b35w]

Somebody help me out please. Trolling motor batteries are wire to 24 v. I tested them under load and the jumped terminals are reading 25v which is normal. I’m trying to figure out if I have a bad cell or it’s the trolling motor. The terminals that the TM connects to don’t have a reading. Is that correct?


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[cam1195]

Not sure why there would be a bad cell if you are measuring 25V under load. Nothing sounds wrong with the batteries. If you are not measuring any voltage at the plug that the TM connects to, there is an issue with wiring to the plug or you’ve blown a fuse. First thing to check is the fuse, as well as any accessory switch that may be associated with the TM.

If this is a new set up, you’ve replaced the batteries, or have never used the trolling motor, make sure the batteries are wired in series.

[b35w]

Actually I may have that backwards. I may have 24 volts at the non jumped terminals. But either way I only am getting 24 volts at 1 opposing set of terminals.


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[b35w]

Not sure why there would be a bad cell if you are measuring 25V under load. Nothing sounds wrong with the batteries. If you are not measuring any voltage at the plug that the TM connects to, there is an issue with wiring to the plug or you’ve blown a fuse. First thing to check is the fuse, as well as any accessory switch that may be associated with the TM.

Previous owner had the TM hardwired directly to the batteries. Have no idea why. Trolling motor is running when on 5-10 but not 0-4. Not running at full capacity even on 10 and turning slow as well.

I was just curious about the cell because I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to be reading 24v on each of the opposing terminals or just 1 set.


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[Cwaysvt]

What exactly is the problem?

[b35w]

What exactly is the problem?

Just posted above


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[Cwaysvt]

Voltage can read good and the amperage still not be what it is supposed to be. Best way is to test with an actual load tester or even better a refractometer.

But based off what you’re describing sounds like a problem in the foot pedal/trolling motor itself.

[Steelin' Ducks]

A2Z

[b35w]

Voltage can read good and the amperage still not be what it is supposed to be. Best way is to test with an actual load tester or even better a refractometer.

But based off what you’re describing sounds like a problem in the foot pedal/trolling motor itself.

I’ve tried to separate footpedals with the same issue so seems to be narrowing down to the trolling motor itself.


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[Smilee]

What’s the charging approach?

If you have two 12V batteries I would charge individual with a known good charger. Load test individually. Then test system with correct wiring configuration.

Battery 1 negative is 0 Volts and consider that the starting point. Black test lead for meter goes here to test. Battery 1 positive terminal will be 12V and connect to Battery 2 negative to be 12V there as well. Battery 2 positive is now 24V nominally.

[b35w]

What’s the charging approach?

If you have two 12V batteries I would charge individual with a known good charger. Load test individually. Then test system with correct wiring configuration.

Battery 1 negative is 0 Volts and consider that the starting point. Black test lead for meter goes here to test. Battery 1 positive terminal will be 12V and connect to Battery 2 negative to be 12V there as well. Battery 2 positive is now 24V nominally.

I have charged both separately and both read 12 not load tested though


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[Whackumstackum]

How old are the batteries?

[b35w]

1/21 is manufactured date


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[ecu1984]

are you reading 24V leaving the batteries at the batteries?
If so, what is the reading at the trolling motor receptacle up at the bow?
Most have a 20amp breaker on each battery, some of these breakers are very small and just have a tiny
push button reset on the end, easy to overlook

[b35w]

are you reading 24V leaving the batteries at the batteries?
If so, what is the reading at the trolling motor receptacle up at the bow?
Most have a 20amp breaker on each battery, some of these breakers are very small and just have a tiny
push button reset on the end, easy to overlook

I’m reading 24 V at the battery terminals. Each battery has a 60 W amp and both are good I confirmed. It doesn’t have a trolling motor plug per se I’ve got to get in there and see how it’s actually connected. The connection is made under the deck in the rod storage box somewhere.


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[reeltight]

Did you wire the boat or was the wiring already in place? What size wire from battery to TM? How long of a run?

You’ve said you don’t have a reading at the TM yet it works on some settings?

[b35w]

Did you wire the boat or was the wiring already in place? What size wire from battery to TM? How long of a run?

You’ve said you don’t have a reading at the TM yet it works on some settings?

Already in place. There is not a traditional TM plug so don’t have a way to see if it is getting 24 v


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[reeltight]

So the wiring was already in place but no plug? How is the TM connected to the wiring that was already in place?

[reeltight]

And how old is the TM. They used to run 24v with three wires. Today they run it with 2.

[SCFoxman]

Previous owner had the TM hardwired directly to the batteries. Have no idea why.

I'll take a stab and guess the bow connection wouldn't work for him either, so he found a workaround.

Add TM plug to the bow and rewire with correct awg for amp draw starting load