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Thread: Filing old transducer holes

  1. #1
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    Default Filing old transducer holes

    Is 4200 enough? I may have some West 101 kit, I just hate to waste a whole packet if the 4200 works fine.

  2. #2
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    I used the right stuff to fill mine.

  3. #3
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    Not trying to half ass it. Just don’t know if the stuff is good to use for that type of application or not.

    I use 4200 around the screws when mounting the new mount so not sure why I couldn’t use it to fill the old holes from the previous guy.
    Last edited by duckz; 09-15-2021 at 07:27 PM.

  4. #4
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    4200 is an adhesive/sealant, you are looking to fill in holes.

    Easiest way will be to fill with epoxy

  5. #5
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    If I’m going to mount a new transducer, should I use the excess epoxy to fill the screw holes when mounting? Or stick to the 4200 for that?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckz View Post
    If I’m going to mount a new transducer, should I use the excess epoxy to fill the screw holes when mounting? Or stick to the 4200 for that?
    New screw holes seal with 4200, correct on that.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernWake View Post
    New screw holes seal with 4200, correct on that.
    that’s what I’m talking about! Ha

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckz View Post
    If I’m going to mount a new transducer, should I use the excess epoxy to fill the screw holes when mounting? Or stick to the 4200 for that?
    If mounting a new transducer, fill the existing holes with epoxy mixed with some fiberglass mat or dust. Then mount a piece of starboard to the transom with 5200 and screws. Mount the new transduce to the starboard. This will allow you infinite adjustments to the transducer mount and the ability to mount a new one when this one gets broken or you get a new head unit that is not compatible with the existing transducer, with out having to put more holes in the boat every time.
    Last edited by FishSticker; 09-15-2021 at 07:55 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishSticker View Post
    If mounting a new transducer, fill the existing holes with epoxy mixed with some fiberglass mat or dust. Then mount a piece of starboard to the transom with 5200 and screws. Mount the new transduce to the starboard. This will allow you infinite adjustments to the transducer mount and the ability to mount a new one when this one gets broken or you get a new head unit that is not compatible with the existing transducer, with out having to put more holes in the boat every time.
    There are also commercially available products like this not made of starboard and are able to adhere without screws/mechanical fastening.

  10. #10
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    Over the last few months dealing with a 43 year old fiberglass boat I've learned a lot. Definitely use Expoxy to fill the holes.
    YouTube Will occupy all the time you will allow if you look up this topic.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Steelin' Ducks is the KRT of suppressors and such.

  11. #11
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    Marine Tex

  12. #12
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    I'd use a small tube of 4200 and cover the area with a transducer mounting board so you won't have to worry about it again.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Ephesians 2 : 8-9



    Charles Barkley: Nobody doesn't like meat.

  13. #13
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    Drill out old screw holes to fit a wooden dowel. Cut dowels so they will counter sink a bit in the hole. Coat dowel with epoxy, push into hole, and cap off dowel with epoxy. If I recall you have a wood cored high tide. Water intrusion into your transom coring will eventually suck.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steelin' Ducks View Post
    Over the last few months dealing with a 43 year old fiberglass boat I've learned a lot. Definitely use Expoxy to fill the holes.
    YouTube Will occupy all the time you will allow if you look up this topic.
    Boatworks Today has been banned in my house.

  15. #15
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    Here's how I did mine, not saying it is right or wrong. If I was doing it again the only thing I would change is through bolting instead of screwing into the plastic sleeves. I bought a 12x12x3/4 sheet of starboard on amazon and then cut to match deadrise and chamfered edges.

    -Drill oversized holes
    -epoxied plastic sleeves in holes
    -screwed starboard into sleeved holes, bedded in 5200

    IMG_20200417_153917252.jpg

    IMG_20200417_154123343.jpg

    IMG_20200418_095702162 (1).jpg

  16. #16
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    Also before I did all that I went out and checked where I had the cleanest water coming off the bottom

    97946 (1).jpg

  17. #17
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    This is for a transducer, there is no need to through bolt or drill larger holes than needed.

    Go buy some type of epoxy based product (even use JBWeld here if you want) fill your old small old holes.
    Go buy a "transom saver" mount and stick it on (no screws).

    Less holes below the water line the better. No matter how well you think you seal it water will eventually get in.

    Or mount it in the "bilge" are of the high tide and let it shoot through the hull.

  18. #18
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    I would have rather have through bolted it to make sure I got good squeeze out and coverage of the 5200. Nothing to do with holding the actual transducer on. There is not really a good way to clamp the thing on there while the adhesive sets up.

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