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Thread: 2006 Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 5.4 291,000 miles Won't crank/Wont Start

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Piedmont,NC
    Posts
    111

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    I got the wiring pigtail in the mail. Not much in the bag, pigtail, butt splice, heat shrink, a piece a split wire loom tubing. Now just gotta get the time (working 6-12's with a 7 hr in the middle, this week) to get truck on jackstands and put it in. Gonna be a pain laying on the ground.
    Last edited by Valeflyfisherman; 03-12-2021 at 06:21 PM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Piedmont,NC
    Posts
    111

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    Well update. I bought the pigtail, for the "starter lug fatigue", i couldnt do it, i dont have a big enough jack to get it off ground to get my jackstands under it. I did take it to a new to our community auto shop. About 1/4 mile from the house. He replaced the wire. The Ford tech bulletin pigtail, it didnt fix the problem. On Wednesday eve he was able to get it to start by bypassing the relay from the battery. He said the problem is before the relay. Either the ignitian Switch, the neutral safety, the PCM, or the wire. He was able to drive it in his shop on thursday eve.
    Last edited by Valeflyfisherman; 03-21-2021 at 04:48 PM.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Piedmont,NC
    Posts
    111

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    Update on my truck. Still no fix. I had the Terminal fatigue lug fixed, still the same issue, So i ordered a new PCM it too me about 2 weeks to get it. It was the most expensive part in the in the chain of possible issues @ $260 shipped, Came with 2 keys programmed for that PCM, all i had to do was get them cut for my ignition, Took me about 5 min to install. I did what the directions stated about the new keys. No start. Truck did about a 1/32 crank, then nothing.
    I had to do a work around to use my truck, we have 2 vehicles and the wife always seems to need her's. I have installed a momentary push button switch (had an DIN-rail button collecting dust,) removed the Starter relay and identified the pin that goes to the starter solenoid and a vacant constant hot blade in the fuse panel.

    I'd Post a picture but don't want anyone to steal my idea before i patent it. LOL.

    Starts up great, runs great, even took my boat last Thursday, for water access to a turkey spot, Heard one but couldn't get him to come in.

    I'm having some front end work done on Monday so i'm have the mechanic replace the Neutral safety switch, after watching a video of where it at and not wanting to be lying on the ground trying to replace it. i decided to add that to his work.
    I hope this fixes it, if not i guess the ignition switch is next, unless i'm missing something,

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Fort Kickass
    Posts
    50,993

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    Yeesh.
    "Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery elements are for wise men to contemplate and for fools to pass by without consideration" -Izaak Walton

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    ******* County, NC.
    Posts
    5,913

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    Quote Originally Posted by Valeflyfisherman View Post
    Update on my truck. Still no fix. I had the Terminal fatigue lug fixed, still the same issue, So i ordered a new PCM it too me about 2 weeks to get it. It was the most expensive part in the in the chain of possible issues @ $260 shipped, Came with 2 keys programmed for that PCM, all i had to do was get them cut for my ignition, Took me about 5 min to install. I did what the directions stated about the new keys. No start. Truck did about a 1/32 crank, then nothing.
    I had to do a work around to use my truck, we have 2 vehicles and the wife always seems to need her's. I have installed a momentary push button switch (had an DIN-rail button collecting dust,) removed the Starter relay and identified the pin that goes to the starter solenoid and a vacant constant hot blade in the fuse panel.

    I'd Post a picture but don't want anyone to steal my idea before i patent it. LOL.

    Starts up great, runs great, even took my boat last Thursday, for water access to a turkey spot, Heard one but couldn't get him to come in.

    I'm having some front end work done on Monday so i'm have the mechanic replace the Neutral safety switch, after watching a video of where it at and not wanting to be lying on the ground trying to replace it. i decided to add that to his work.
    I hope this fixes it, if not i guess the ignition switch is next, unless i'm missing something,
    You forgot to add in the part where your son in law let you borrow his Toyota for 2 weeks and how much you liked it and now want a Yota.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    6,591

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    I had something similar in mine, everything was normal except no fire to starter. I was initially told it was the old key, so got the spare from the house, and same thing... Had a melted area in the fuse box under the hood. It would periodically short the system, cleaned it up, so nothing was shorting and all was good from then on. It seemed to like to crank cold, or cool, but not after a quick drive, shut off at the gas pump and jump back in. For a while, I could "fix" it by disconnecting the positive terminal and reconnecting it; which I did thinking it could have been a poor connection. It finally refused to crank in the yard, and I was about to call a tow truck, but tried it one time and drove it straight to the mechanic. Mechanic took it for a couple days and finally found it by tracing wiring back.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Piedmont,NC
    Posts
    111

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    Got my truck back from mechanic,after doing front end work. Had him to test or replace neutral safety switch. Mine tested good. All the way back to the fuse box. So everything lead back to the fuse/relay box. He disconnected the relay box and inspected, no burnt wires or other issues. He plugged everthing back. Started like it should. Test drove to get truck heated up, everything ok. I have my backup starter switch rrady just in case. He said if it acts up again, see if fuse/relay panel is hot could be failing, and replace. Will have to see what happens now.

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