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Thread: Herters

  1. #1
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    Default Herters

    Anybody have an idea how Herters did their armored ultimate or millenniums?

    Seems to almost be heat shrunken on or poured on and hardened?

    Burlapping sucks and is awful heavy.
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  2. #2
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    You can see the folds of the photoprint on the bottoms of the ones I have. I would guess heat over adhesive because it doesn't seem to come unglued over time...

  3. #3
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    I just had a brilliant idea. Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Screw burlapping and mastic. Try Titebond III and corn cob grit from Harbor Freight. If you want it super tough top coat it with epoxy resin and then paint.
    Listen to your elders. Not because they are always right but because they have more experiences of being wrong.

    "We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give" Sir Winston Churchill

  5. #5
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    It looked like they took a photo of duck feathers, printed it out inside some plastic then shaped the plastic around the decoy. Or shaped the plastic then filled it with foam.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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    Delta in a nutshell: Breeding grounds + small wetlands + big blocks of grass cover + predator removal + nesting structures + enough money to do the job= plenty of ducks to keep everyone smiling!

    "For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cajunwannabe View Post
    Screw burlapping and mastic. Try Titebond III and corn cob grit from Harbor Freight. If you want it super tough top coat it with epoxy resin and then paint.
    Why couldn’t you just epoxy and skip the other steps? Epoxy eat the foam?
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  7. #7
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    Most likely, yes.

  8. #8
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    I burlapped plenty. Time consuming process i dont care to do anymore. Ive got prob 100 spare bodies that need to have something done to them. Will prob titebond/shell resstle coat them
    "Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world's great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of the rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs.
    I am haunted by waters" Norman Maclean.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOGSTER View Post
    Why couldn’t you just epoxy and skip the other steps? Epoxy eat the foam?
    I'm sure you can use epoxy resin in lieu of Titebond. I'd paint the decoy in latex paint first just to be safe. Titebond III is some great stuff and makes for a real tough decoy, epoxy coating over that would make them super tough.
    Listen to your elders. Not because they are always right but because they have more experiences of being wrong.

    "We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give" Sir Winston Churchill

  10. #10
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    Default Herters

    Epoxy over titebond is just adding unnecessary weight.
    Last edited by Tater; 02-09-2021 at 06:50 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phone Man View Post
    I burlapped plenty. Time consuming process i dont care to do anymore. Ive got prob 100 spare bodies that need to have something done to them. Will prob titebond/shell resstle coat them
    Why don’t you sell me a few?
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  12. #12
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    Too late

  13. #13
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    Damn you
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  14. #14
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    Clean, dry, apply titebond III with chip brush over decoy evenly, add walnut shell fine ground aka lizzard litter, let dry, add second coat of Titebond III with 25% water mixed well, let dry then paint.

    Pretty daggum light and the hell mine have seen over the last three years speaks very well to the armoring.

    Not very messy nor expensive.
    Genesis 9;2

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cajunwannabe View Post
    Screw burlapping and mastic. Try Titebond III and corn cob grit from Harbor Freight. If you want it super tough top coat it with epoxy resin and then paint.
    I'm going this route with my next batch. My bills and tails are wearing through on my homemade burlapped decoys.

  16. #16
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    I want to buy more betters if any of y’all have some to sell

  17. #17
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    While we’re on the herters subject.... Do any of you gentlemen have any suc ducks that you’d like to sell? I would love to find about 2-3 dozen more suc duck mallards if possible. Didn’t mean to hijack your post Clark!
    U serious Clark?

  18. #18
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    Check Facebook market place.

    Particularly in the Delmarva area.

    Those fellas seem to have used Herters more so than anywhere in the country, and they haven’t lost their minds on pricing.

    Southern Facebook decoy sellers seem to not understand that chipped up styrofoam isn’t worth 25$ a bird.
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  19. #19
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    David - why water down the 2nd coat?
    Be proactive about improving public waterfowl habitat in South Carolina. It's not going to happen by itself, and our help is needed. We have the potential to winter thousands of waterfowl on public grounds if we fight for it.

  20. #20
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    To make the glue thin enough that the texture added in the first coat will be there. This keeps the decoy from being slick when you go to pick it up.

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