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Thread: Civil Engineer - Residential

  1. #1
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    Default Civil Engineer - Residential

    We're building on a bit of a grade to have a walk out basement. I want to be as sure as possible that we won't have drainage (or foundation) issues in the future. I'm debating on engaging a residential civil engineer create the grading and drainage plan. Is this common practice or do most rely on the builder? Any recommendation on a Civil Engineer in the midlands?
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
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    Spend your money on a good concrete guy

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    Most rely on the builder.

    Superior walls is a good basement system with a lifetime warranty to the original homeowner
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by everlast View Post
    We're building on a bit of a grade to have a walk out basement. I want to be as sure as possible that we won't have drainage (or foundation) issues in the future. I'm debating on engaging a residential civil engineer create the grading and drainage plan. Is this common practice or do most rely on the builder? Any recommendation on a Civil Engineer in the midlands?
    You'll probably faint when you find out how much it'll cost for a simple design.

    Listen to kquinn. He's one of the good concrete guys.
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  5. #5
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    ^What Turbo said. I'm a Civil engineer and I wouldn't touch a house with potential water issues for less than $7-10K for liability issues alone.
    Last edited by lowbudget; 01-13-2021 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Clarity

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    You could try Dan Creed at Heritage Engineering in Blythewood. I refer lots of smaller jobs like this to him. He may be interested and if he is he could definitely help you.

    Gene

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    Call KQuinn - he can fix it right the 1st time!!!
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  8. #8
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    I too am a licensed professional engineer.

    You do not need me or anybody else to make sure your shit don't get wet.

    Call kquinn.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the kudos, but I don't mess with residential a lot. I will be more than happy to steer you down the correct path on what needs to be done.

    I have seen Superior Walls fail on multiple occasions, especially with high ground water content.

    High strength mixes have less porosity, so I would pour a minimum of 5000 psi for my walls. Use Xypex or Penetron waterproofing admixture. Apply additional sheet waterproofing to the outside. French drain on your footer. Waterstop in the cold joint between footing and wall and where the interior slab ties into the wall. Caulk your saw joints in the slab on grade. It will cost an extra 3-4k to do it the right way. There is some redundancy in there, but water is a fickle creature.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kquinn View Post
    Thanks for the kudos, but I don't mess with residential a lot. I will be more than happy to steer you down the correct path on what needs to be done.

    I have seen Superior Walls fail on multiple occasions, especially with high ground water content.

    High strength mixes have less porosity, so I would pour a minimum of 5000 psi for my walls. Use Xypex or Penetron waterproofing admixture. Apply additional sheet waterproofing to the outside. French drain on your footer. Waterstop in the cold joint between footing and wall and where the interior slab ties into the wall. Caulk your saw joints in the slab on grade. It will cost an extra 3-4k to do it the right way. There is some redundancy in there, but water is a fickle creature.
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    I used folks out of Chapin to do my poured walls. 14 years dry. 1/2 my lot was solid rock at finished basement grade....she hasn't moved a smidgen. I added 57 stone, plastic vapor barrier before I let them pour my basement slab. If you get the right company and you should be good to go!

    If you're in Columbia and want to look at my basement your welcome to come by. I'm in White Rock / Hilton area.
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  12. #12
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    I’m a Civil PE. Call the concrete guy. Probably needs a French drain

    What address should I mail the $2,000 invoice to?
    Last edited by BrandonWagner; 01-13-2021 at 07:23 PM.

  13. #13
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    No civil engineer. You’ve already got a structural engineer designing the house. And provided the construction of the foundation was correctly executed, you’re good. If not, it’s on the contractor.

    Drainage around the house can be achieved with a simple french drain. I would dig the trench about one foot wide x two and a half feet deep. Lay non-woven fabric in the bottom of the trench with about 3’ of fabric on each side. Put in about 4” of #57 stone across the bottom of the trench, lay in a 4 or 6” perforated HDPE pipe along the entire trench, and then bring the #57 up to about 6” of the final grade around the house. Wrap the non-woven over the stone and overlap it, and then backfill with dirt.

    Done.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the feedback, all. Invaluable.
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    -Samuel Adams

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kquinn View Post
    Thanks for the kudos, but I don't mess with residential a lot. I will be more than happy to steer you down the correct path on what needs to be done.

    I have seen Superior Walls fail on multiple occasions, especially with high ground water content.

    High strength mixes have less porosity, so I would pour a minimum of 5000 psi for my walls. Use Xypex or Penetron waterproofing admixture. Apply additional sheet waterproofing to the outside. French drain on your footer. Waterstop in the cold joint between footing and wall and where the interior slab ties into the wall. Caulk your saw joints in the slab on grade. It will cost an extra 3-4k to do it the right way. There is some redundancy in there, but water is a fickle creature.
    Kquinn, I'd like to ask the concrete guys the builder is using some intelligent questions. How would I ask about the high strength mix, or ask them what they use? Is that the same as the concrete grade and compressive strength is the psi value you mentioned? Give me the vocabulary to ask it intelligently so they won't feel like they can give me the layman's answer, if you don't mind.
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    -Samuel Adams

  16. #16
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    Thoroseal, tar, plastic barrier and french drain is what we used to use. I'm sure there may be some better products out now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigBrother View Post
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  17. #17
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    from the builder :

    "basement will include solid walls of poured concrete, which is formed and reinforced with vertical and horizontal rebar per code. 30 year transferable spray on waterproofing warranty that includes exterior drain tile. The floor will be 4 inches of reinforced concrete with a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier to reduce moisture transfer. The interior slab is poured on top of the footing creating a seal where water cannot enter the basement. The drains (tile drain and footer drain) on the exterior are placed at the rear of the basement walls"

    any red flags there, or areas where i should probe deeper?
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    -Samuel Adams

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by everlast View Post
    from the builder :

    "basement will include solid walls of poured concrete, which is formed and reinforced with vertical and horizontal rebar per code. 30 year transferable spray on waterproofing warranty that includes exterior drain tile. The floor will be 4 inches of reinforced concrete with a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier to reduce moisture transfer. The interior slab is poured on top of the footing creating a seal where water cannot enter the basement. The drains (tile drain and footer drain) on the exterior are placed at the rear of the basement walls"

    any red flags there, or areas where i should probe deeper?
    No red flags, but I'd ask the spec to be ammended with 5ksi concrete including waterproofing admix, waterproof sheeting on exterior, Waterstop at the cold joint and slab joint, and caulked saw joints per Kevin-man.

    I would put my eyes on his drain design before I let them cover it up as I've seen a lot of guys dig a trench, drop some pipe, and cover her up.

    Fish's description is typical of a nice french drain.

    ETA: Kevin's estimate of $3-4k extra to do it right seems low for a builder that's going to budget higher for something he's never done before.
    Last edited by turbo; 01-14-2021 at 08:23 AM.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  19. #19
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    Thanks Turbo. Will do
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.”
    -Samuel Adams

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