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Thread: 2006 GMC Yukon Help Needed

  1. #1
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    Default 2006 GMC Yukon Help Needed

    I'm having an issue with my 06 Yukon (5.3L), 219,XXX miles. I'm going to apologize upfront for the long post but hoping all these details will help me figure out this problem because its driving me nuts.

    Approximately a year ago, the check engine light came on. I had previously noticed, that "tighten fuel cap" also kept popping up on my display. I took it to advanced auto, ran the codes, and the only thing that popped up was EVAP PURGE Solenoid. Its a $50 part, that really only relates to emissions. No big deal, but the main concern to me, was that if I cut my vehicle off while buying gas, it would have trouble starting back up with a full tank. It did this repeatedly to the point where I don't cut the vehicle off anymore while pumping gas. I replaced the part, but the light has stayed on with the same code until a month ago when I checked it again. Same code, but I wasn't worried.

    Last Friday OCT 16, I went fishing with a buddy in Ft. Lauderdale. Filled up with gas before I left, and drove about an hour through the rain to get to where we were going to fish. Fished. Drove home at 2pm. 8pm I go out to check the mail, and hear a noise in the driveway. Both electric cooling fans are running. I pop the key in the ignition, turn the truck on and back off, fans go off and I go inside.

    Saturday OCT 17, Walk outside at 8am, fans are running again. I crank the car up and head out to go to the store. Engine light starts flashing, motor intermittently is running very rough like it wants to cut off (but never stalls), smells like gas, truck goes into what I would call a "SAFE" mode and won't let me get any RPMS. So anyway, instead of going to the store, I go to the Firestone Service Center in Homestead, FL. I thoroughly explain the issues I'm having, and the entire story above. I drop off the keys and tell them to run the $99 "diagnostic" and call me back and tell me whats wrong and what they propose to do to fix it.

    2 hours later, I get a call back from Firestone and they say they have inspected the vehicle and run the diagnostics. They say the following codes popped up:
    - P0300 Random/ Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    -P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input
    -P0442 Evap Emision Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
    -C0050 DTC description not found
    -P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit

    The following work was then proposed:
    -Replace all 8 spark plugs
    -Replace all 8 ignition coils
    -Replace all 8 plug wires
    -Remove and Replace both KS
    -Replace AR 171 Relay
    -Replace Gas Cap
    -Remove &Replace Wheel Speed ABS ($244.59)

    All of this proposed work including Parts and Labor plus 10% discount is $2257.11. YIKES!

    I tell them to not touch anything, I do not authorized the work and I am coming to get the car. I do some research and determine that others like me have had this similar issue and resolved it by cleaning the orange and blue plugs which go to the ECM.

    Sunday OCT 18 I pick up the car, battery is dead from the fan running so I have to jump it off, and drive it home. I unplug the battery, put it on a charge, and unplug the ECM. I clean the orange and blue plugs off with electrical parts cleaner. There is maybe a single drop of water on the blue plug but overall everything looks very clean and not much corrosion. I put dielectric grease on the plugs and put them back on the ECM. Drop the battery back in. Start the car, and now there are no check engine lights on. Vehicle drove around fine. No symptoms or issues.

    Today, OCT 19, No fan is on when I get up this morning, so I drive it to the store around 9am, no real issues and no engine light. Stutters maybe one time but no symptoms like yesterday. Engine light comes back on, but I figured that was just the Evap purge solenoid. Back home around 12 noon, I walk outside to check and see if the fan is running, and it is. Fans are running, so I crank it up and drive it to Advanced Auto. Hook up the OBD scanner and get the following codes:
    -P0480 Fan 1 control Circuit
    -P0480 Fan 1 control circuit
    -P0455 Evap Emission System leak detected (gross leak/no flow)

    So i bought the recommended $15 relay and drove home. After cutting the car off and leaving it in the driveway, I come back outside and hour later and the fan is ON. Perfect time to check the relay. I pull the old relay out, it cuts off the fan. Plug it back in, fan comes back on. Plug the new relay in. Same thing. Currently the relay is out to keep from draining my battery tonight.

    So my question is , HOW DO I FIX THIS? Its a 15 year old vehicle and I don't care what Firestone Service center says, I don't think that replacing the knock sensors and spark plugs is going to fix this issue. If there was a reputable mechanic in south florida I would take it there, but unfortunately, I don't trust anybody in Dade Co. Please help!
    Last edited by tman; 10-19-2020 at 07:44 PM.
    "Hunt today to kill tomorrow." - Ron Jolly

  2. #2
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    I would replace the gas cap if you have not done so. Had similar evap codes on a 2014 Camry and that fixed it. At the same time, I was having trouble with the fans coming on intermittently or not shutting off when the ignition was turned off. I believe that issue was due to moisture because a new windshield had been installed and there was a leak.
    S.C. - Standing alone against Northern aggression since 1861 (LAT)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenwing View Post
    I would replace the gas cap if you have not done so.
    Smh...

    I replaced that Evap Purge Solenoid on a 07 Suburban. It was a little aggravating because of where it is, but was done in an hour or so.
    Last edited by SaltMuck; 10-20-2020 at 06:43 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaltMuck View Post
    Smh...

    I replaced that Evap Purge Solenoid on a 07 Suburban. It was a little aggravating because of where it is, but was done in an hour or so.
    Yeah I replaced that as well but the problem persists. I assume it's a leaky hose or bad signal?
    "Hunt today to kill tomorrow." - Ron Jolly

  5. #5
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    Have you traced its wiring?
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

  6. #6
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    Sell it

  7. #7
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    Have you thought about a match?
    Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn't go so far as to call a dog filthy but they're definitely dirty. But, a dog's got personality. Personality goes a long way.


    You might take out a dozen before they drag you from your home and skull fuck you to death. Marsh Chicken 6/21/2013

  8. #8
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    Buy a Toyota

  9. #9
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    The PCM on drivers side is corroded from water. Remove PCM and look for corrosion on the wiring harness side and the PCM side.

    Very common.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  10. #10
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    Thank me later by saving you hundreds if not 1000.00’s of dollars worth of parts and diagnostics being thrown at it.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRT View Post
    The PCM on drivers side is corroded from water. Remove PCM and look for corrosion on the wiring harness side and the PCM side.

    Very common.
    That's what I thought it was going to be , but when I pulled the PCM off the plugs had some kind of plastic protector on them (orange and blue). I briefly inspected but the corrosion appeared minor. I will take pics and post them. Thanks KRT!
    "Hunt today to kill tomorrow." - Ron Jolly

  12. #12
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    My 06 was minor and it randomly ran fans and killed battery. I replaced pcm and harness end used, programmed, replaced knock sensors and been riding since.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  13. #13
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    do you fix dodges?
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  14. #14
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    Looks like minor corrosion on the blue side. I am currently scrubbing the hell out of it with a wire brush.


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  15. #15
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    Cleaned everything up with a wire brush. Liberally applied dielectric grease to contact points and on the rubber seals around the plug. Put everything back together and cranked it up. Cut it off and back up again. No check engine lights, although that is to be expected after unplugging pcm and battery. Going to check on it a few times to see if the fan comes back on.




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    Yet another satisfied A2Z customer.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaltMuck View Post
    Yet another satisfied A2Z customer.
    We thrive to help everyone.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  18. #18
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    Welp. So I thought my issues were resolved but after heavy rain yesterday (coincidence?) I caught my fan running in the work parking lot again. Ran the codes and got P0455 and P0480. Why would the issues quit for a week then start back?

    Screenshot_20201026-152034_Torque (Lite).jpg

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  19. #19
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    If the PCM connectors are not corroded with gangrene, I’d replace the PCM. It prob has corrosion inside the PCM on the circuit board. You can use a used one if someone has the ability to flash the PCM. All you have to do is match up the connector colors (blue/green)
    More fuel = more boost!!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    do you fix dodges?
    I can not.
    More fuel = more boost!!

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