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Thread: Converting Deere 7000 planter to no-till?

  1. #1
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    Default Converting Deere 7000 planter to no-till?

    Is all it takes to convert is to add the no-till coulter assembly and spring kit?

    I see on Shoup's that they offer a 25 wave blade, 13 wave blade and a bubble blade. What difference does it make?


    https://www.shoupparts.com/products/...lter-assembly/

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    Fewer waves means more disturbance. If you are strictly no-till, go with the 13. Also look at Yetter and Dawn. I ran 13 wave Yetter floating combos in moderate to heavy soil with good success. No-till into sandy soil is a waste of time on spring crops. If you can afford it, but floating trash whips.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
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    Following, this is something I would love to do to my old covington planter if at all possible
    I am a nobody, that met somebody, that can save anybody.

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    I own that setup. It makes the planter a bit longer. It works well on level ground.

    In other words. Lowcounty is great. It will skip in rough upstate clumpy clay that has been turned with a disk harrow. It the field is clumpy, we will go in with a perfecta first.

    That brings you back to might as well no till which is the whole point. Just laying out the different situations that I have seen it work.

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    My goal is to disturb the soil less for less weeds and better moisture retention in dry weather.

    I usually disc and smooth it with the perfecta. I'd much rather run the mower and sprayer than the disc and cultivator. I need to up my game on herbicides though.

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    I just rebuilt my no-till and using it most of the time.
    Wanting to get into some kind of vertical tillage for weed and thatch management and really start working on improving soil quality.
    Last edited by Calibogue; 09-05-2020 at 06:03 AM.
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    I went to 100% no till 4 yrs ago in Union county soil. It took the last three years to build up a good amount of decomposed matter. We are seeing good results now with moisture retention. Still have weeds in places but seem to be gaining on them.

    It has made a big difference in fighting soil erosion as well.


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlisle View Post
    I went to 100% no till 4 yrs ago in Union county soil. It took the last three years to build up a good amount of decomposed matter. We are seeing good results now with moisture retention. Still have weeds in places but seem to be gaining on them.

    It has made a big difference in fighting soil erosion as well.


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    How have you handled the summer weed growth preplant?
    You planting right through it green, spray then plant, burn, vert. tillage?
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calibogue View Post
    How have you handled the summer weed growth preplant?
    You planting right through it green, spray then plant, burn, vert. tillage?
    Tough to plant in green. I’d burn down with Gly/2,4-D or Dicamba 3-4 weeks prior to planting. If I was pushed for time, Gramoxone 1-2 weeks prior.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaltMuck View Post
    Tough to plant in green. I’d burn down with Gly/2,4-D or Dicamba 3-4 weeks prior to planting. If I was pushed for time, Gramoxone 1-2 weeks prior.
    Yes, I've been doing the same for quite some time, usually burning as well.
    That is doing nothing for soil improvements though, just making the planting go smooth.
    Last edited by Calibogue; 09-06-2020 at 08:02 AM.
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    I built a roller crimper last year and have been experimenting with it. Still use gly in some areas pre-plant.

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    Hows the crimper working out?
    Well with some vegetation and poor with others?
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calibogue View Post
    Yes, I've been doing the same for quite some time, usually burning as well.
    That is doing nothing for soil improvements though, just making the planing go smooth.
    Roger. How about Italian rye? It’s the only part I can’t figure out. It’s dead, then it’s not.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaltMuck View Post
    Roger. How about Italian rye? It’s the only part I can’t figure out. It’s dead, then it’s not.
    That is one of the Devil's weeds!
    I've been studying a bit on how to tackle it.
    I think you gotta pretty much go straight wheat to treat it.
    Hoelon I think is one product but I think maybe Cimarron has potential.
    Either way, it's an expensive control.
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calibogue View Post
    That is one of the Devil's weeds!
    I've been studying a bit on how to tackle it.
    I think you gotta pretty much go straight wheat to treat it.
    Hoelon I think is one product but I think maybe Cimarron has potential.
    Either way, it's an expensive control.
    I believe clethodim is the answer for corn, but the 30d plant back scares me. Replanting sucks.

    To your question earlier, I ran a 1750 pull type and was not interested in swapping over to 3pt but wanted some vertical tillage. Ended up finding an old KMC ripper and fashioned a receiver hitch on the back to hitch the planter to. Would be aggravating in a small area, but I used it in decent sized fields and planted end rows last. I thought picking up the lift then an outlet would get old, but it wasn’t bad.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    I've never seen wild rye a problem in corn, only in Fall planted crops.
    Last edited by Calibogue; 09-05-2020 at 01:27 PM.
    \"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead frozen from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself.\" <br />D.H. LAWRENCE

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calibogue View Post
    Hows the crimper working out?
    Well with some vegetation and poor with others?
    Quote Originally Posted by Calibogue View Post
    Hows the crimper working out?
    Well with some vegetation and poor with others?
    Exactly. The taller the better. Not so great on broadleaf weeds.
    I planted oats, turnips and some durana last fall and rolled it in late May with the intent of planting soybeans. The clover looked so good I decided to leave it. Getting ready to drill oats back into it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SaltMuck View Post
    I believe clethodim is the answer for corn, but the 30d plant back scares me. Replanting sucks.

    To your question earlier, I ran a 1750 pull type and was not interested in swapping over to 3pt but wanted some vertical tillage. Ended up finding an old KMC ripper and fashioned a receiver hitch on the back to hitch the planter to. Would be aggravating in a small area, but I used it in decent sized fields and planted end rows last. I thought picking up the lift then an outlet would get old, but it wasn’t bad.
    I’d like to see a picture or video of that


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    Looking at the Yetter coulter kit, spring kit and residue manager, it'd be $1450 for a two row planter. That may be my Christmas present.

    Is there any shortcut to figuring out herbicides? So far, my education has been very piecemeal. I see some chemical mentioned on here and look it up. The company brochures aren't easy to read and figure out for my specific situation. The plethora of name brands for any particular chemical doesn't make it any easier. I'd like to find some consolidated info or even a structured course. Does the Clemson/state pesticide licensing course teach much useful info?

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