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Thread: Another Jon Boat Thread

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goin Coastal View Post
    I know. But what all do you have hooked to your accessories panel that’s going to pull 30 amps on a Jon boat? Considering all are running at one time.
    Sorry - I understand now. 30A is the smallest, I think, they make. It's probably 200% too big for the jonboat application but it will still blow really, really quick if there's a short somewhere between the battery and the first fuse panel. I used 80A main fuses in the duck boat so I could put a fuse between the batteries and the starting current of the motor and put the motor behind the Off/On/Combine switch - it's only a F20 so it doesn't pull any more than that. I did it on both batteries so I could combine them if the starting battery is dead. Putting the motor behind the switch lets me turn everything off. If someone had a bigger motor they would probably still need to hook the motor directly to the battery.

    There's a thread on another site where a guy's motor started itself a couple of times just sitting in the driveway - that's why I try to put the motor behind the switch and the switch behind a fuse - where possible. I don't have the big boat fused until after the switch. The switch still shuts the motor off but I didn't want to fuse the starting of a F150.
    Ephesians 2 : 8-9



    Charles Barkley: Nobody doesn't like meat.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highstrung View Post
    I feel like if Rubberhead saw my jonboat wiring he would never look at me in the eyes.
    Ha ha - I'm sure all would be fine if you just made me a plate of those fancy grits with the unknown green sprout things placed on top.
    Ephesians 2 : 8-9



    Charles Barkley: Nobody doesn't like meat.

  3. #63
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    Bumping this back up,

    With the exception of a floor and hydroturf I’ve pretty much got things like I think I want them.

    I’ve decided to wait until I get my floor built and do the hydroturf on the front deck, the floor, and back bench all at the same time. Will probably wait til hunting season gets going and then drop it off and have the floor built (unless I can gain access to a good shear and brake press) but I’m hashing out ideas in the meantime. I want the floor notched around the ribs, and I’m thinking to make it easier to remove have it built in two section. The back half would lay down first, the front half would have a crimped lip to overlap the 1st piece by about an inch. Foam on bottom for sound deadening.

    Until last week I hadn’t considered anything other than hydroturf or seadek but now a line-x type coating has popped into mind. I think it’d last longer than anything else and I know they can do different colors but my main question is how bad it will hold heat. Do they make a special marine application with any type of radiant resistant quality that would prevent it from getting uncomfortably hot?

    Any better suggestions or definite do’s / don’ts for the floor?
    Houndsmen are born, not made

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    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
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    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  4. #64
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    I talked with a buddy of mine who worked for Rhino in Columbia. When I gave him the dimensions he gave me a price and expected weight and I about fell over. The price was something ridiculous, well over $1000 and the weight added was going to be pretty significant as well since it was adding way more of a layer on than just the nonskid that comes direct from factory. This was in a Alumacraft waterfowl 15 so that is a little different but still. Now Line-X might have a better application for marine products than rhino but I would think the weight added would be similar. I ended up buying seadek off of amazon(2 sheets) and covered my boat. I feel like I'm much happier with that than I would have been with Rhino/Line-X

  5. #65
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    Had not thought about it being much additional weight, good point
    Houndsmen are born, not made

    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
    Quote Originally Posted by JABIII View Post
    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  6. #66
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    Why not 3/4” marine ply covered in mottled brown AstroTurf? I had it in an Xpress I bought awhile back. The previous owner had it and I replaced what he had. I liked it because I never scalded my feet in the summer.

    If you do go that route. Rip the plywood sheet into 2 pc from front to back so you can easily remove and clean under if if you need to.
    Last edited by SaltMuck; 07-02-2020 at 09:50 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

  7. #67
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    plywood for the floor all day. your feet will thank you.
    cut\'em

  8. #68
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    I’ve always just used foam board between the ribs and then tractor supply stall mats on top for the floor.

  9. #69
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    I rough cut gaps for my aluminum sheet to fit around the ribs then cut and riveted a tight fitting aluminum plate over my sheet so I could minimize trash and crap from falling through the gaps.

    Also I would definitely recommend hydroturf or an equivalent adhesive backed sheet foam. That’s the only way to avoid heat. I’ve had roll in bed liners, painted wood floors, and carpeted wood and nothing is as low heat/easy to clean/quiet/traction providing as hydroturf. Just my 2¢

  10. #70
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    I don't go barefooted in the boat so I'm not worried about my feet. a sheet of #11 aluminum will be lighter than plywood and last a lifetime, It will cost more but I don't mind paying for what I want.

    Looks like Ill stick with a foam covering for the floors
    Houndsmen are born, not made

    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
    Quote Originally Posted by JABIII View Post
    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  11. #71
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    So, as I said I would, I had my floor built during deer season when I wasn’t using the boat. I had cold spring enterprises in Abbeville do the work, great price and great turn around time. I dropped off on a Tuesday and picked up the next day.

    One of the side strips is welded in place and the other is detachable so I can pull the floor out if I want to. I got a quote from Line-x to spray it but they hurt my feelings so I decided to do it myself. I was off this past week so it worked out perfect.

    I ran some 60grit sandpaper over the floor in multiple directions to etch the surface then I wiped it down several times with denatured alcohol to remove any dirt/residue from the surface. Primed it, two coats of rustoleum bedliner, and then two coats of Behr deckover in ponderosa green. The last coat of deckover I used a special roller to help give it some additional texture. I allowed for a 24hr dry time between all coats of paint, the last one is still drying. Line-X quoted me $650 to spray the floor green, I’ve got about $150 in material ( plastic, paint, sandpaper, primer, bedliner, rollers) and about 2hrs time in it overall spread out over the course of the past week. I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out so far. Picking up some sheets of foam board next week to cut between the ribs for sound deadening and then I’ll drop it back in. I have enough material left over that I may do the front deck and bench seat as well when I have some more time.

    2D5BF0F2-75DB-4277-B9F1-DB5D10EF9A73.jpg
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    Houndsmen are born, not made

    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
    Quote Originally Posted by JABIII View Post
    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  12. #72
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    Looks like a pool table with extra pockets...

    Seriously, though, good job, Duck. You live a good life, brother. Keep it up.

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bart View Post
    Looks like a pool table with extra pockets...

    Seriously, though, good job, Duck. You live a good life, brother. Keep it up.
    Yea, in hindsight I should have went with a lighter color but I’m sure it will probably fade with time. The main thing that a I’ve got a solid floor and I think it will have plenty of traction as well
    Houndsmen are born, not made

    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
    Quote Originally Posted by JABIII View Post
    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  14. #74
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    I took on a COVID quarantine project after seeing this post. Thanks to Rubberhead’s post for giving me the inspiration.





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  15. #75
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    That looks good!
    Houndsmen are born, not made

    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    I STAND WITH DUCK CUTTER!
    Quote Originally Posted by JABIII View Post
    I knew it wasn't real because no dogbox...

  16. #76
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    Looks real nice and clean. Good job

  17. #77
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    Clean wiring

    One thing though is how low to the bottom of what is basically the bilge all of that is. It seems a couple gallons in the boat and your fuse box and possibly more is underwater. Not to mention the wires sitting on the floor, that loom will also hold/trap water.

  18. #78
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    Clean wiring

    One thing though is how low to the bottom of what is basically the bilge all of that is. It seems a couple gallons in the boat and your fuse box and possibly more is underwater. Not to mention the wires sitting on the floor, that loom will also hold/trap water.

  19. #79
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    That crossed my mind during the install but given the lack of available space due to the batteries and fuel tank, the only other option would have been the transom which I wasn’t crazy about. I can’t recall a time where that much water has been in the boat at any given time. The bilge is wired to work even if the battery switch is off. The loom is split and twisted so as to not hold water


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  20. #80
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    Upgrade to an 1100 gph bilge pump and it shouldn’t be a problem with water getting to fuses.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigBrother View Post
    I can eat a bowl of alphabet soup and shit out a thought process better than the vast majority of you clemmings.

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