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Thread: Hot water heater gurus

  1. #21
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    Yes curly, i am. They are my bread and butter, did 117 last year and on pace to easily eclipse that number this year.

  2. #22
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    So if I over tightened these hookups, wouldn’t I see the leak at the top? Or have I damaged something internal? Is this something I can fix or am I looking at buying a new “WATER HEATER”.


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  3. #23
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    Have you checked on the warranty period? I would think it would be longer than a year.

    Blackstock is right about needing an expansion tank and pressure regulator, etc, per code, so if you don’t have them don’t mention it when you call them. Btw, do you know what your water pressure is? High water pressure can shorten the life of a tank, although only a year is really pushing it.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodieSC View Post
    Have you checked on the warranty period? I would think it would be longer than a year.

    Blackstock is right about needing an expansion tank and pressure regulator, etc, per code, so if you don’t have them don’t mention it when you call them. Btw, do you know what your water pressure is? High water pressure can shorten the life of a tank, although only a year is really pushing it.
    I should still be under warranty, getting them to honor that seems like it will be an issue. I emailed their support yesterday, still waiting on a reply. I don't know what my water pressure is and I had no clue about thermal expansion tanks until now, there wasn't one on the original tank when I bought the house. I never knew there was so much to this crap, figured it would all be plug and play.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  5. #25
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    D608E0B3-1831-4EA5-8F64-9F419E2E1AB4.jpeg
    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    I should still be under warranty, getting them to honor that seems like it will be an issue. I emailed their support yesterday, still waiting on a reply. I don't know what my water pressure is and I had no clue about thermal expansion tanks until now, there wasn't one on the original tank when I bought the house. I never knew there was so much to this crap, figured it would all be plug and play.
    Chances are that your inlet pressure is below 60 psi as many water lines are, but the problem comes from the pressure increase from thermal expansion when the water heats up. The reason for the expansion tank is to absorb that pressure instead of pushing back onto the line, or up into the house lines. Some systems may need a backflow prevention valve if the code doesn’t call for one (I don’t remember, but blackstock should know.

    Here’s my current setup that I had to replace two years ago. I learned much of these details back then after having two top dollars heaters go bad after 5 and 6 years, respectively. And while replacing everything, I plumbed it in copper (vs the CPVC it had) so that I can now easily replace the regulator, the pressure gauge, the expansion tank, or the water heater... ‘plug and play’. This picture can give you an idea... start from the upper left and follow the pipe to the right and around, down, and back up and over to the tank.

    My system is gas, so the regs might be a little different for electric. I don’t know.
    Last edited by WoodieSC; 03-31-2020 at 06:48 AM.
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  6. #26
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    This thread has been very informative. I'll be changing out a 23 yr old water heater in the near future and also do not currently have ano expansion tank. Thank you WoodieSC for the pic.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Back40 View Post
    This thread has been very informative. I'll be changing out a 23 yr old water heater in the near future and also do not currently have ano expansion tank. Thank you WoodieSC for the pic.
    I am not a licensed plumber, so can’t tell you what to do, but would be glad to answer any questions about my installation, etc.

    Read the code in your County Code of Laws, etc, it get your friendly plumber over to do it for you. It can be worth the hassle when done right.
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  8. #28
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    Alright, so the water heater tech support people called in today. Shockingly, they were great to deal with. They have given me return authorization to go back to Lowe's and get a new unit.

    Now, I gotta do this thing right. So someone who is bored, lay it all out there. Expansion tank, correct hook-ups, snug but not tight, what else do I need to look at?
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    Alright, so the water heater tech support people called in today. Shockingly, they were great to deal with. They have given me return authorization to go back to Lowe's and get a new unit.

    Now, I gotta do this thing right. So someone who is bored, lay it all out there. Expansion tank, correct hook-ups, snug but not tight, what else do I need to look at?
    The first thing you need to do is check the State and/or your local regs. Some systems now require 'Mixing Valves' on the discharge and 'Vacuum Relief' valve, depending on the code and the installation.

    Something I've learned over the past several decades (initially from the plumbers) is to set the tank up on some bricks inside of the water pan. That way if any water does leak into the pan, it doesn't rust out the bottom of the tank. Just make sure the tank is stable when empty, and then again when full. To be ultra safe, particularly in earthquake areas or if you have rowdy kids, strap the tank to the wall. Just a thought.

    Here's a pretty complete step-by-step set of instructions from Lowes. I'd study that, and mark up what you don't understand, and make notes if something sounds different or is missing vs what's been said on this thread. But, again, look up your County building codes first and study those and make notes to compare to this set of instructions.

    https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/insta...c-water-heater

    This instruction manual from State water heaters has some more detail in it... and maybe too much. Don't get confused...

    https://www.statewaterheaters.com/li...184671-000.pdf

    Let us know if you have any questions... or you could make a sweet deal with blackstock and sit back and learn while watching him do the work to save you some of these...

    Btw, just came across this while looking at the codes...

    Take Your Time to Avoid Dry Fire

    When it comes time to check if the unit is producing hot water, you need to wait until the unit is completely full of water before the electric power is restored and applied. This is important because you can easily burn out the upper heating element if you power it up too soon. This is a condition that is referred to as Dry Fire.

    The best recommendation to prevent Dry Fire is to open a hot water faucet in the home allowing it to run fully open for at least three minutes before you power the water heater back on.
    Have fun!
    Last edited by WoodieSC; 03-31-2020 at 12:17 PM.
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  10. #30
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    Making any headway yet, MM?
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    Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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    "Keep your powder dry, Boys!"
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    "If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodieSC View Post
    Making any headway yet, MM?
    No sir. Lowe's wants the old unit to exchange out for the new unit so its gonna be a project for this coming Saturday. Probably better off that way instead of trying to rush through it in an afternoon/evening after work. My wife tends to get a little snippy if she can't have a hot shower.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    Alright, so the water heater tech support people called in today. Shockingly, they were great to deal with. They have given me return authorization to go back to Lowe's and get a new unit.

    Now, I gotta do this thing right. So someone who is bored, lay it all out there. Expansion tank, correct hook-ups, snug but not tight, what else do I need to look at?
    Make it easy and just call a pro. They'll have it done in short order and you won't have to worry if you screwed it up again.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remy View Post
    Make it easy and just call a pro. They'll have it done in short order and you won't have to worry if you screwed it up again.
    Pshh. I got the scducks think tank on the job, nothing can stop me now.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    No sir. Lowe's wants the old unit to exchange out for the new unit so its gonna be a project for this coming Saturday. Probably better off that way instead of trying to rush through it in an afternoon/evening after work. My wife tends to get a little snippy if she can't have a hot shower.
    Tell her to heat up a pot of water on the stove and be a helpful wife...

    I'm surprised they won't let you take the new one with a deposit for the old one that you get back when you bring in the old one. That's how I set up my last replacement with the distributor.

    Remy does raise a good point, though. Given the things you probably need to get done, with no experience or coach on site, it may well be worth at least getting a quote from a Lowes/Home Advisor contractor if you don't already know one. An electric tank install wouldn't (I don't think...) be as expensive as a gas install with a forced exhaust, etc. The contractor wanted something like $700-$800 to change out my last tank and accessories (it was a high $ gas tank), but since I'd be around several installs and had done one or two myself over the years I did it with the lifting help of a good friend.

    Another alternative... although probably not according to code, so this is just a comment... would be to do a straight 'swap'. Then follow-up with studying the detail and installation steps for an expansion tank, shut-off valves, etc, etc, according to your County code, and do all of that as soon as you're ready to get 'er done. In all probability, you could install the piping (or pex tubing, etc) and the expansion tank and shelf and then just cut things off to do the connections when you're ready. It's all up to how handy you are with tools.

    Or, probably the best way to handle it, and to stay within the code, IF your tank isn't extremely serious right now and you can last another week, get the parts and things pulled together, get what you can set up and installed in the evenings and this weekend, and make the full swap next weekend. Just a thought.

    Have fun!
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    Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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    "Keep your powder dry, Boys!"
    ~ George Washington

    "If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'

  15. #35
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    Are you on a well or on city water? If on a well, do you have a bladder tank (I sure hope so)?

    You probably don't need an expansion tank, but that totally depends on your system.

    Follow the installation instructions on your new rig, and you'll be fine.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo View Post
    Are you on a well or on city water? If on a well, do you have a bladder tank (I sure hope so)?

    You probably don't need an expansion tank, but that totally depends on your system.

    Follow the installation instructions on your new rig, and you'll be fine.
    I'm on city water. I was looking at the codes and I don't see the call for the expansion tank. I am gonna dig a little more before I start jumping through the hurdles. Blackstock and I spoke on the phone yesterday and went over what I assume was my biggest screw up. I really think this one should go in without a hitch.
    "This is My commandment, that you love one another as I have loved you." John 15:12

    "Strive for peace with everyone, and for the holiness without which no one will see the Lord." Hebrews 12:14

  17. #37
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    Rock and roll, homie.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  18. #38
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    Never had an expansion tank on any of the hot water heaters I've ever had. Not saying they ain't needed, but.........if it ain't broke, don't fix it mentality has served me well in that kinda situation.
    Low country redneck who moved north

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolliesMaster View Post
    I'm on city water. I was looking at the codes and I don't see the call for the expansion tank. I am gonna dig a little more before I start jumping through the hurdles.
    That would be nice if you don't need to install an expansion tank, but it depends if you have an open or closed system. That is, do you have a pressure regulator and/or a back-flow preventer on the inlet cold water line from the city? If you don't have anything in the line now, it sounds like you're good-to-go. Blackstock could explain this further if he hasn't already.

    Have fun!
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    Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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    "Keep your powder dry, Boys!"
    ~ George Washington

    "If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'

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