Which one would you pick

[cusportsman]

I’ve got a Havoc 1656DB with a Tohatsu 50 4stroke. It does tend to be a little wet on big water with a chop. Mainly Lake Murray which has a lot of boat traffic and gets pretty choppy.

Admittedly though, I’m not well versed in “setting up” a boat so not sure if it could be improved to ride with the bow up more but it rides flat and cuts through the waves more so than riding on top.

Overall I like the boat though. It is a 16’ Jon boat and not a center console...


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[Ring King]

I didn't realize that Danny Thibodeaux owned Legend Craft boats. Is that something that happened in the last 5-7 years or so? I used to talk to Danny quite a bit on the Refuge forum about the 59ci Mercs we used to run. The Ambush is a decent looking boat. Wish it came in something bigger than a 1756.

[Goin Coastal]

I don't know where they are measuring a 14 degree bottom but it isn't the transom. Not looking at this pic anyway.

mr marsh runner cut out back view.png

[dixiedeerslaya]

I don't know where they are measuring a 14 degree bottom but it isn't the transom. Not looking at this pic anyway.

mr marsh runner cut out back view.png

that pic is deceiving. optical illusion. there is a 6" cutout on the back of the transom. 6" in the center tapered to nothing on the sides.

[Gone South]

I didn't realize that Danny Thibodeaux owned Legend Craft boats. Is that something that happened in the last 5-7 years or so? I used to talk to Danny quite a bit on the Refuge forum about the 59ci Mercs we used to run. The Ambush is a decent looking boat. Wish it came in something bigger than a 1756.

He took over at the beginning of 2019

-fixed date

[Gone South]

that pic is deceiving. optical illusion. there is a 6" cutout on the back of the transom. 6" in the center tapered to nothing on the sides.

[Goin Coastal]

This shows it better. The keel, where degree of deadrise is measured, is not 14 degrees. 8 at best. The angle from the inner most strake outward may be but that is designed to add more lift and not be in the water when running.

[scdiver]

One of the really nice things about my 1553 is that with a jack plate and my 50hp, floats in almost nothing and easy to get off the sandbars.

The MarshRunner wasn't an option when I ordered mine but I like the looks of it!

[Fat Lab]

I had a 1751 MST and it would wet the absolute hell out of you. You had to slow down and ease across another boats wake to avoid getting wet. Got caught in a pretty serious quartering wind on a lake out west and was legit scared I was going to have to run it up on the bank to keep from sinking. Fast forward to the next year, I ran the same line with the same exact wind(different boat) and was dry, sipping coffee out of a tumbler. I know they have stepped up and made a lot of new improvements but one thing I could not understand was not having a drain in the floor and the only way for water to escape to the bilge was about a 1/16" gap at the back under the hatch that access's the bilge area. I ended up taking a small pry bar and bending it up off of the floor to get a half ass decent flow. Obviously, they were built for a timber boat and ran very well in that aspect but apparently Tim is doing something right with them now because they're on every street corner!

[dixiedeerslaya]

This shows it better. The keel, where degree of deadrise is measured, is not 14 degrees. 8 at best. The angle from the inner most strake outward may be but that is designed to add more lift and not be in the water when running.

I dont know where they measure it from but all I can promise is that the standard Havoc DB line of boats have alot "flatter" bottom than the RDB and Marsh Runner line of boats.

[Ring King]

Sounds like I need a Marsh Runner 1860 in order to meet my needs! LOL

It's a shame the someone doesn't build out a 1760 or 1860 patterned after the old style Xpress Hyperlift that I had. I would want .125 aluminum, 24" or so side height but with a good flare to them in order to help with spray and avoid wave slap on the hull, fuel tank and battery storage in the rear, high extended front fishing deck with recessed trolling motor foot control basin, catwalks on both sides with a gun box in one, rear deck hatch for bilge access, a pad hull with about a 18" center pad to help keep it up on top with less HP required, and have it rated for a 90hp tiller.

Gator Trax makes the Strike Series bass boats. Basically my idea would be to downsize one of those hulls but configure it for a tiller motor. Maybe I need to put in a call to Kent and see if that's something he's willing to try. Chad over at Prodigy is a good friend of mine. Might be able to talk him into it as well!

[Goin Coastal]

Sounds like I need a Marsh Runner 1860 in order to meet my needs! LOL

It's a shame the someone doesn't build out a 1760 or 1860 patterned after the old style Xpress Hyperlift that I had. I would want .125 aluminum, 24" or so side height but with a good flare to them in order to help with spray and avoid wave slap on the hull, fuel tank and battery storage in the rear, high extended front fishing deck with recessed trolling motor foot control basin, catwalks on both sides with a gun box in one, rear deck hatch for bilge access, a pad hull with about a 18" center pad to help keep it up on top with less HP required, and have it rated for a 90hp tiller.

Gator Trax makes the Strike Series bass boats. Basically my idea would be to downsize one of those hulls but configure it for a tiller motor. Maybe I need to put in a call to Kent and see if that's something he's willing to try. Chad over at Prodigy is a good friend of mine. Might be able to talk him into it as well!

That sounds perfect. I’ll be in Gonzales in 2 weeks for the Louisiana Sportsman’s Show. I can ask Kent about it. I’m he sure he would build it. He always says, you dream it, I’ll build it.

[triplebeard]

Gator Trax makes the Strike Series bass boats. Basically my idea would be to downsize one of those hulls but configure it for a tiller motor. Maybe I need to put in a call to Kent and see if that's something he's willing to try. Chad over at Prodigy is a good friend of mine. Might be able to talk him into it as well!

I did that too, Matt. Kent came up with excuses for why I didn't want him to build it, which I took to mean why he didn't want to build it.

[triplebeard]

And the setup you described was verbatim what I told him I wanted, sans recessed trolling motor control. I run a digital/remote setup and don't want a hole to trip over.

[scswamprat]

we have a 1656 dbst with 24"sides...its been in some pretty rough weather..i love the boat...but a 1860 with 24" sides sounds real nice....

[Ring King]

we have a 1656 dbst with 24"sides...its been in some pretty rough weather..i love the boat...but a 1860 with 24" sides sounds real nice....

Have you had any issues with taking tons of spray? That's the only thing that bothers me about a lot of the cookie cutter boat brands. They all seem to be trending towards narrow beams and straight vertical (or near vertical) sides as if timber hunting is the only thing anyone uses an aluminum boat for. I don't timber hunt, will likely never timber hunt, but I do use my boats for open water running, big water fishing, and running marsh. A flared side helps tremendously with directing spray away from the boat and also gives more room on the inside.

[scdiver]

I wonder if you could weld spray rails on a jon boat similar to the maverick hpx boats.

[Palmetto Duck]

I don't know where they are measuring a 14 degree bottom but it isn't the transom. Not looking at this pic anyway.

mr marsh runner cut out back view.png

Whoever it is needs to tidy up that wiring in left tail light. Sloppy

[Ring King]

Being a marine electronics technician by trade I prefer to wire up all of my own stuff. That way I don't end up with stuff like that left tail light. Not to mention I can make sure everything gets soldered, wires get tinned, and heat shrink connectors are used on everything. A liberal coating of dielectric grease on exposed terminals goes a long way as well!