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Thread: Gun Porn

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by NannySlayer View Post
    You like that bottom metal? Looking to put some on a couple of 700's
    It can be done
    Quote Originally Posted by willyworm View Post
    I was forced to replace my bottom metal. The OEM Tikka metal is plastic and has a small washers embedded into it for the stock screws. When I torqued it down after bedding the stock the washer pulled right outta the plastic. No fixing that. Went with the Mt. Tactical bottom metal to replace. I like it a lot better than OEM.
    Everyone over torques a stock. You would be shocked at how low they are supposed to be torqued to. As for why you don’t bed a tikka. They use a floating recoil lug. When you bed them it defeats the purpose.
    Seeing these soulless vanilla ice lookin Yankees on a bassboat is worse than watching a woman get her implants taken out. It's just wrong. Get back in your Lund and go back to infisherman.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin View Post
    As for why you don’t bed a tikka. They use a floating recoil lug. When you bed them it defeats the purpose.
    Interesting. Do you know if that holds true for older Tikka models like the 695 (synthetic stock) and the 558 Hunter (wood stock)?

    I've had both apart to work on the triggers, and had to clean out some warp in the wood-stocked .243, but don't recall the specific shape, etc, of the recoil lugs.

    Thanks.
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    "Keep your powder dry, Boys!"
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  3. #23
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    Nov 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griffin View Post
    Everyone over torques a stock. You would be shocked at how low they are supposed to be torqued to. As for why you don’t bed a tikka. They use a floating recoil lug. When you bed them it defeats the purpose.
    Pretty sure that's exactly what happened. I got the FAT and solved that problem.

    What do you torque the stock screws to typically?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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    Delta in a nutshell: Breeding grounds + small wetlands + big blocks of grass cover + predator removal + nesting structures + enough money to do the job= plenty of ducks to keep everyone smiling!

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  4. #24
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    Oct 2012
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    I dig it.
    Genesis 9;2

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by willyworm View Post
    Pretty sure that's exactly what happened. I got the FAT and solved that problem.

    What do you torque the stock screws to typically?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Here’s the info from a Tikka technician, but you’ll have to read the postings...

    http://www.tikkashooters.com/public_...crews-on-a-t3/

    Basically, he said that on imbedded synthetic stocks to snug up the screws, front first, and then torque the front to 40 and the rear to 35, but read the thread for more detail in case I’ve forgotten a step.
    .
    Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
    .
    "Keep your powder dry, Boys!"
    ~ George Washington

    "If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'

  6. #26
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    Thanks woodie. I'll check it out.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Delta in a nutshell: Breeding grounds + small wetlands + big blocks of grass cover + predator removal + nesting structures + enough money to do the job= plenty of ducks to keep everyone smiling!

    "For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
    -L/Cpl Edwin L. "Tim" Craft

  7. #27
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    Griff, I put one of those bolt handles from Mt Tactical on my T3 and it was a nice upgrade. I assume you've seen those. You plan to replace the OEM one on that gun?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Delta in a nutshell: Breeding grounds + small wetlands + big blocks of grass cover + predator removal + nesting structures + enough money to do the job= plenty of ducks to keep everyone smiling!

    "For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
    -L/Cpl Edwin L. "Tim" Craft

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