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Thread: 2010 Tahoe A/C problems

  1. #1
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    Default 2010 Tahoe A/C problems

    A/C is acting funny in the Tahoe. Passenger side works fine, second row vents work fine, third row vents work fine. Driver's side vents blow out hot air for the most part but it does decide to work fine every now and again. Any ideas?

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    Blend door control

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    Default 2010 Tahoe A/C problems

    I just posted a thread on my deal with this. If the AC is blowing cold in some zones then it is likely the blend door control(s).
    I replaced three last week. Problem solved.

    Edit: start with the one under the passenger side kick panel. Pull as much plastic out as you can to gain access. A little bit of a pain in the ass due to space. Two screws and one plug.

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    Last edited by Islandguy85; 10-03-2019 at 11:26 AM.

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    Is that something that when it goes out, it goes completely out? It will blow cold air out in all zones some times, but more times than not, it's blowing hot air out of the drivers side vents.

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    Wife’s 08 Suburban AC works fine in the front, but the 2nd row barely blows. Same issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    Wifeís 08 Suburban AC works fine in the front, but the 2nd row barely blows. Same issue?
    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Go Tigers!

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    I googled how to replace it. It looks pretty simple if it's the one on the passenger side but the one on the driver side looks pretty tough to get to. Unless I'm just missing something.

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    I found a way to re-calibrate it but knowing my luck, it won't fix it.

  9. #9
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    Default 2010 Tahoe A/C problems

    Recalibrating it wont work if it is failing mechanically. I tried every reset sequence I could find, including trying with a computer. Mine was an intermittent issue until recently it went all hot on passenger. If any of the zones are blowing cold which means the AC is working, and one or more are not blowing cold the blend doors are likely the issue.
    The one under the passenger kick panel is where I would start.
    In my 07 to get to the other two in the dash I had to remove my airbag which isnt that bad. I was mostly just afraid of handling it. I watched a video but you start by pulling the trim piece off the dash very gently and it will come right off with the AC vent covers. On the passenger side the far right cover is attached with one screw that you will see once you pull the trim piece. You can see the 4 bolts holding the airbag at that time. It also helps if you drop the door to the glove box. Unplug, remove airbag. Reach in the hole and unscrew the blend door actuators, replace. The actuators are the most aggravating part just bc of accessibility. While I was at it I also replaced the mode door actuator but probably didnít need to. Once they were replaced it worked immediately, no further calibrating.

    I did not replace any rear ones, but I think there is one in the trunk space paneling for rear air.


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    Last edited by Islandguy85; 10-03-2019 at 03:02 PM.

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    Be glad it is not an f150. The way Ford buried them is asinine


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Islandguy85 View Post
    Recalibrating it wont work if it is failing mechanically. I tried every reset sequence I could find, including trying with a computer. Mine was an intermittent issue until recently it went all hot on passenger. If any of the zones are blowing cold which means the AC is working, and one or more are not blowing cold the blend doors are likely the issue.
    The one under the passenger kick panel is where I would start.
    In my 07 to get to the other two in the dash I had to remove my airbag which isnt that bad. I was mostly just afraid of handling it. I watched a video but you start by pulling the trim piece off the dash very gently and it will come right off with the AC vent covers. On the passenger side the far right cover is attached with one screw that you will see once you pull the trim piece. You can see the 4 bolts holding the airbag at that time. It also helps if you drop the door to the glove box. Unplug, remove airbag. Reach in the hole and unscrew the blend door actuators, replace. The actuators are the most aggravating part just bc of accessibility. While I was at it I also replaced the mode door actuator but probably didn’t need to. Once they were replaced it worked immediately, no further calibrating.

    I did not replace any rear ones, but I think there is one in the trunk space paneling for rear air.


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    The one on the passenger side looks pretty easy to get to. Knowing my luck, it won't be that one. I youtubed it and it said if you can see it turning trough all the cycles, obviously that's not the one that's bad.

  12. #12
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    Default 2010 Tahoe A/C problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Drakey View Post
    The one on the passenger side looks pretty easy to get to. Knowing my luck, it won't be that one. I youtubed it and it said if you can see it turning trough all the cycles, obviously that's not the one that's bad.
    The screw holding it closest to the middle of the truck is a PIA but persistence pays off. You should be able to see it turning but if an intermittent issue then at some point it is not working. It is nothing more than a small electric motor inside the actuator housing pushed by a set of plastic gears. I think sometimes they push too far one way or the other and hang up or just get old and freeze up.

    I am assuming you have a full console. If so, removing the plastic pieces that butt up against the firewall helps alot and you can work on it from both the driver and passenger side. Those plastic pieces pop off/slide out.
    You also have to remove the plastic kick panel which is 2-3 easy to access screws.
    If you want you can even test them with a 9v battery and two pieces of small cable but I would probably just replace them if you pull them out.
    I did get the cheap ones ($60 total) because I didnt want to spend $450 or whatever it was for the OEM parts. Hopefully they last. If they dont, I now know how to replace them and I could do all three in under an hour. Figuring it out the first time is what took me the longest as well as BSing around with trying to troubleshoot/recalibrate.

    Edit: make sure you get the right ones by searching the part number on the old actuators. Initially I got one that looked the exact same and fit perfectly. When I installed it it switched from intermittent heat on passenger to cold on passenger and hot all the time on driver. F. I took the new one out and realized the pins on the electrical connection were not the same configuration. Returned that one and got three identical ones that were the right part. Installed, good to go.

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    Last edited by Islandguy85; 10-04-2019 at 09:21 AM.

  13. #13
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    Just some insight. If they fail “mechanically” they will not switch back in forth from heat to cool. I mean how can they? They are failed mechanically.

    I’m sure Google says different.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  14. #14
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    The blend door actuators on the Fords like to make a rattle noise behind the dash.
    More fuel = more boost!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by KRT View Post
    The blend door actuators on the Fords like to make a rattle noise behind the dash.
    I am guessing these companies figured they would never fail?


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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Islandguy85 View Post
    I am guessing these companies figured they would never fail?


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    Nah, I think they just don’t care.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  17. #17
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    And mechanics gotta eat too.
    More fuel = more boost!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by KRT View Post
    And mechanics gotta eat too.
    I think that was the ultimate motive


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  19. #19
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    My drivers side upper is bad on my 06 Silverado. When it goes to heat, I just cut the truck off at the next stop light and restart it, then it goes back to cold.
    More fuel = more boost!!

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