6.5 Norma?
6.5 Norma?
I would do the trigger 1st an aftermarket not you adjusting a Walker Trigger. Pick ammo in the same lot , shoot and she how it does. Then I would put it in an HS Precision and shoot ,you might be happy with the results.
65 inch pounds on the HS or B&C stock. I don’t know if the factory tupperware will take that much.
I love my Seven. Great little hunting rifle. Target rifle it ain’t.
I took the M7 apart yesterday and the back screw was about 30-35 lbs and the front just about 60. However, these were set by me several years ago when I first adjusted the Walker trigger and didn’t have a torque wrench. I’ll come back to this...
I made some adjustments on the Walker trigger before I removed it just to see what I could do with it. I could get it to about 2-1/2#’s, it couldn’t consistently pass the ‘finger lightly on trigger and push the safety off’ test. The trigger felt good, but that was when I knew the Timney was going in. It’s set for 2#’s even though it will go to 1.5, but since I’m not positive that my readings are 99+% accurate, I’d rather up it a little.
The one big question is that the original trigger pins are finger-loose and that ain’t good. I’ve dabbed them with a drop of clear nail polish and left a note for the Timney people to see if they have heavier pins.
As for the stock action screw torque values... I’ve read everything from 35-65 lbs for the synthetic stock. I figure I’ll go with 65/35 and adjust if I see screwy groups, pending a new B&C stock.
Constructive comments and suggestions welcome.
Thanks.
Last edited by WoodieSC; 08-27-2019 at 10:58 AM.
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Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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"Keep your powder dry, Boys!" ~ George Washington
"If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'
Go to the hardware store and find a spring style cotter pin that fits the trigger pin holes.
Measure length and cut off the straight side.
Remingtons aren’t to sensitive to rear torque values like savages are. 60in lbs on both.
Rock and roll with it.
I’ve looked various places and can’t place what you’re referring to..
Is it this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-1...-Clips/3014243
Or are you referring to ‘roll pins’?
Keep in mind that the rear pin on the Model 7 is only about a 10-32 or so vs the Model 700’s that are much larger. I think that’s why the rear is kept to 35 or so as the threads may not hold up to the higher torque.
Thanks.
Last edited by WoodieSC; 08-18-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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"Keep your powder dry, Boys!" ~ George Washington
"If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'
Yeah that’s it. Hitch pin or whatever they call it.
Gotcha. I think I probably have some. The pins are .125 according to several gun forums. Will check that tomorrow.
Thanks.
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Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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"Keep your powder dry, Boys!" ~ George Washington
"If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'
My win mod 70 extreme sporter 300 wsm is looking for a new home....only 50 rounds thru it.....too many horses in the stable....the pasture isnt big enough for this stud....4.5x14x44 zeiss conquest sitting on top at the moment....SC FN built gun.
Still looking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I shot both my Tikka T3 Lite in 7-08mm today and my Tikka T3 Superlite in .270
Shot them each one time at 100 yards, just to check any scope bumping in the off season before I start hunting
in the next day or two. This cold front has me thinking about sitting....….shot from leaning across the hood of the truck (in the rain)
They are good to go
IMG_3320[5736].jpg
Here is another angle......keep the M7 for a climbing stand gun then buy a Model 700 Stainless in 7mm08 with a 24 inch barrel. Do some load development with Varget and H4350 with 120gr NBT’s and 140gr NBT’s and ProHunters. You might be surprised at what you can accomplish.......or you can get a stainless 25-06 and shoot into the next zip code
Last edited by CWPINST; 08-23-2019 at 08:00 PM.
If it ain\'t accurate at long distance, then the fact that it is flat shooting is meaningless.
I have 2for sale , a .280 and .300 WM, both 95% or better.
A lot of free peddling going on in here.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Been a bit busy this past week with a family medical emergency, but things have worked out well.
I'm assuming that's about a 1" square piece of tape, correct? Were you aiming for the corners, or the center of the square? In other words, what's your definition of 'good to go'... at what distance?
No time or equipment for load development. It will have to meet my hopes and needs with a factory load for now, but thanks for the info in case I do ever get in to it.
You've got that right...
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Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
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"Keep your powder dry, Boys!" ~ George Washington
"If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'
yep about 1 inch. Aiming at center
drizzling rain, I threw this sign up with a small piece of painters tape,
drove about 100 yards away, jumped out the truck, leaned across the hood and shot once
with each rifle. No bench, no pillows, etc. a rushed job and I will take it all day.
They were perfect last year, I was just doing a quick check to see if they had been bumped.
The safe is too full and always having to move long guns to get to other long guns and some times
it feels like they bump. I needed to check them before I sit. I need a second safe.
Last edited by ecu1984; 08-26-2019 at 10:28 PM.
I generally agree and for a quick check I’d take it, too.
Just trying to get a feel for what kind of accuracy guys are seeing with 7-08 factory loads in the T3 Lite or Superlite Stainless rifles. I’m familiar with Tikka’s 1” MOA guarantee, but curious as to the real world experiences.
Thanks.
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Foothills Golden Retriever Rescue
.
"Keep your powder dry, Boys!" ~ George Washington
"If I understood everything I said I'd be a genius." ~ 'Unknown'
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