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Thread: Need wiring help

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckz View Post
    Let me ask this, do you have to have a wire on each terminal of the switch?
    Yes. My switches are lighted but they don't have back lighting. The extra terminal may be to turn on the backlighing.
    Ephesians 2 : 8-9



    Charles Barkley: Nobody doesn't like meat.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-stick View Post
    Run your positive wire to the back of the switch.

    If you wanted to get fancy, you can install a terminal strip to land all your grounds from whatever you are running or ground them to the closest grounding point.
    End thread.
    \"We say grace and we say maam, if you ain\'t into that, we don\'t give a damn.\" HW Jr.

  3. #23
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    Oh what a pain in the ars. I just spent the last half hour removing all the taped connections, taking off the wire covers and trying to trace all the wires around the boat. I forgot to take pictures but I don’t think it’s necessary. I think my only choice here is to re-wire completely. No sense in half ass-ing it. I have wires connected to multiple wires with daisy chains running off daisy chains. I’m not even going to try to make this work.

    I think this post has now moved from “how to wire a switch panel” to more of a “what is important when re-wiring” ?
    We didn’t get into the bus and fuse box but since I am re-doing it all, can you provide some insight on what is important here when doing it correctly. I will need a fuse box, do I need the “bus”? Should I wire everything off of my batter and to a master switch ? Is 14guage good size to use to and from each accessory?

    Any other tips, advice? If you were re-wiring your boat what would you have done differently and what would you consider a must-have ?
    Last edited by duckz; 08-05-2019 at 08:59 PM.

  4. #24
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    0A1E940A-DEE7-4FDD-888D-0A943D64FBF1.jpeg

    Here is a good chart for wire sizes

    Blue sea systems makes some nice fuse boxes for this type application
    Houndsmen are born, not made.

    Quote Originally Posted by Strick9 View Post
    Duck Cutter knows whats up.
    Stuff that works, stuff that holds up, the kind of stuff you don't hang on the wall

  5. #25
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    Don’t tape connections or use wire nuts. Use shrink wrap butt connectors. Some of them even solder the wires when you heat to shrink wrap. The engineer type on here will tell you to solder every connection. Not necessary. See my ‘96 Scout with every electrical component working as an example why soldering is wasting your time. Buy a pair of spring loaded wire strippers. A torch or heat gun will be waaay better than the bic lighter you’ll burn your finger with.
    \"We say grace and we say maam, if you ain\'t into that, we don\'t give a damn.\" HW Jr.

  6. #26
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    Where are you located? PM if needed.
    Last edited by Rubberhead*; 08-06-2019 at 05:02 AM.
    Ephesians 2 : 8-9



    Charles Barkley: Nobody doesn't like meat.

  7. #27
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    Rubberhead, I was looking online last night and came across that Blue Sea fuse block you are using. I am trying to plan everything out beforehand so I can buy everything at once and hopefully knock the install out quickly without working on it for a month here and there. My concern is, how waterproof is that fuse box ? The description says "waterproof" but I have a hard time believing it is really sealed.

    I am in a high tide with little to no closed areas. I have an old picture of the boat from when i bought it. You can see I had the existing switches mounted in the overhang of the gunwale, which is where I am going to put the new panel too. But there is no room to mount a fuse box. I would prefer not to cut holes in the bench and mount it inside, so would I be safe to mount it to outside the bench , facing the transom ? Hypothetically I could get some backwash when slowing down, but for the most part would you say that type of fuse box would be safe to mount outside of a closed area ?

    The only closed area I could install the fuse box would be under the front deck. It just might entail running a lot of extra wire from the switch panel up to the fuse, then all back to the battery in the rear.
    Maybe I should just add inline fuses to each accessory, it sounds a little easier ? I could snug them up in the gunwale maybe ?

    Current Accessories on Switches:

    Front:
    Shark Eyes navigation
    LED lightbar
    LED interior strip light
    Stereo

    Rear:
    Bilge
    Rear Navigation (would like to wire both front and rear navigation to one switch)


    Current Always-on Accessories

    Front:
    Cigarette plug (for handheld spot light)

    Rear:
    Cigarette/USB charger plug
    Fish Finder


    IMG_2214.JPG
    Last edited by duckz; 08-06-2019 at 01:21 PM.

  8. #28
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    Nov 2018
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    don't laugh.. but here is the drawing. Any suggestions, other than my drawing skills ?

    I am wiring all positive wires straight to the panel, then to the battery. Main question here is, since I have tow light cubes that will need to power on via one switch, what is the best way to connect those wires together before running to the switch ? This area is closed off and wont have to worry about water, but may get humid or salt air corrode it. So I want it sealed as best as I should. I was thinking of the plastic wire connectors that snap on ?

    In the front I will have 5 accessories, should I ground all together to a bus bar underneath the front deck, then run it straight to the battery ?

    I still think I have a lot of wires running to the battery, any thoughts on condensing, within reason. Remember this is open hull so waterproof is a must.

    IMG_0507.jpg

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