Buying a used surface drive

[Jaco]

I’ve always used an outboard for hunting, however after this past season I decided that I wanted to make the switch to a surface drive rig for the upcoming season. I’m looking to buy something used in the 16-18’ range with a 35-37hp.

I know my way around buying an outboard, but with all the aftermarket mods/upgrades available I’m cautious about buying someone else’s problems. What should I be looking out for with these motors? Is there an ideal range for hours I should be looking for?

Anything in particular is should be looking at on the hull? I’m looking for Flat bottom, .125 min, hunt deck etc.

Thanks in advance

[Phone Man]

People are generally hard on mud rigs. Unless I knew the person that owned it and how they took care of it, id go through a dealer like cooper river marine or similar. They get trade in rigs all the time and they check them out before they sell them

[SCmudder7071]

Like phone man said, most everyone is pretty hard on a mud motor. Whether it's jumping random things or bouncing off the limiter playing in the mud.

What I would look for in the boat, is are there any hooks, dents, etc on the bottom of the boat. A simple glance under the hull will tell you everything you need to know.

As for motor, I'd look over it to see if there's any leaks, drips, etc and then break out the compression tester and if at all possible, a leakdown test. Leakdown will show you exactly what you're getting into.

Hour wise, it all depended on how the person maintained their motor. I had 420hrs on my stage 2 build and it performed like a top. Kept oil changed every 40hrs and set valve lash at the same time. Guy that bought my old rig grenaded the motor because he thought it was a good idea to drive back to the ramp on a broken prop. Literally vibrated the internals out the motor. Took him less that 3 months to do that.

[mudflat]

Look for an hour meter that is newer than the motor or unrealistic hours.

[forresj]

As far as the hull goes by far the biggest thing I would look for is hooks on the bottom. A solid hook will absolutely kill performance. I don't know as much about checking the motors but I would get a little tiller time on a surface drive before you get rid of your old rig because its a lot different driving a SD.

[Jaco]

I’ve always done compression test but hadn’t thought to do a leak down test. Appreciate the advice fellas.

I’ve been kicking around buying a new one, but damn 20k+ for a boat that only gets used for three months a year seems crazy to me. Maybe I just need to get over that.

[Woodiewacker82]

Just some advice take it or leave it. I’ve hunted the same Yamaha 25 since 1996 and decided last year I wanted to switch to a surface drive unit. The areas I hunt in NC have me using a push pole to get to almost any spot I hunt. After last season with a surface drive motor I have decided I will be switching back to an outboard. I would find someone who will let you run a mud rig around before you commit to buying. I know many people who love them but, I’m not in that category.

[BugBuster]

I started off looking for a used rig and followed the advice and went to a Cooper River marine and bought a new one.

[Phone Man]

If you are needing a mud motor just for certain places, look at longtails. They can go same places just a little slower and lots cheaper.

[DRDUCK]

Stay with a QUIET outboard. Thank me later after you kill ALOT more Game

[Maggie Glover]

Look for an hour meter that is newer than the motor or unrealistic hours.

Yeah the hour meter on my Pro-Drive just took dive two weeks ago. If you look at the skeg, it will generally tell how hard a life the motor has led. Get the EFI if you plan to do any trolling for flounder etc. otherwise, I prefer the carburated models like my 36. For the boat, go long and narrow vs short and wide and be damn sure the hull is made for a surface drive. The clutches can die with little or no warning a prop that looks like it has wear is already worn out. Other than that, I love my surface drive, I have been all surface drive since 2005. Oh yeah, one more thing, don't plan on going fast. Some do but that requires doing things to that motor that severely shortens their life. MG

[Jaco]

I started off looking for a used rig and followed the advice and went to a Cooper River marine and bought a new one.

I’m thinking about doing these same. What did you end up going with?

[Jaco]

Yeah the hour meter on my Pro-Drive just took dive two weeks ago. If you look at the skeg, it will generally tell how hard a life the motor has led. Get the EFI if you plan to do any trolling for flounder etc. otherwise, I prefer the carburated models like my 36. For the boat, go long and narrow vs short and wide and be damn sure the hull is made for a surface drive. The clutches can die with little or no warning a prop that looks like it has wear is already worn out. Other than that, I love my surface drive, I have been all surface drive since 2005. Oh yeah, one more thing, don't plan on going fast. Some do but that requires doing things to that motor that severely shortens their life. MG

Good information here, thanks. What size hull are you running?

[Maggie Glover]

Good information here, thanks. What size hull are you running?

I have an 18x48 ProDrive hull. I have done one small engine modification (changed the cam out) to gain more low-end torque to carry weight. My boat ends up being the equipment barge while other rocket ahead for the all elusive "perfect hole." I started with belt drive MudBuddy and it was simple enough but the constant tensioning of the belt and then losing a belt drove me to the ProDrive motor. It drives much more like an outboard and is especially nice in the timber or other tight places. I do miss the floating nature of the MudBuddy when I hit an underwater object, but all things considered, I always recommend ProDrive to all that ask. ProDrive now has a floating handle on new motors and can be retrofit. It makes it safer to run. Understand that this is NOT a mature technology and seems to make significant leaps forward every three years or so. Outboard motors have been "scienced out" to the point that there are very few and almost certainly small incremental changes yet to be gained, surface drive motors are still years away from not using borrowed technology (engines). I would love to see Yamaha get into the business but they are tied up making as many 425 HP outboards as they can. MG