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Thread: Pressure Reducing Valve

  1. #1
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    Default Pressure Reducing Valve

    Has anyone ever had one go bad? My pressure is reading high and the set screw seems to be backed out pretty far. I've noticed if you open a few faucets, the pressure to the entire system reduces drastically.

    I am thinking this is due to a bad PRV.
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  2. #2
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    Yes they do go bad.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by kquinn View Post
    Yes they do go bad.
    I know they go bad, but I am looking to see if these symptoms point to a PRV that has failed. I just want to make sure it's the problem before replacing.
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  4. #4
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    Can you post up a picture of it? A lot of the ones I have seen has a screen inside them that you can clean out.

  5. #5
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    I believe this one has the strainer/screen, but it’s up in a ceiling and cleaning won’t be an issue. If it’s failed, I’m going to shift it over closer to the access panel.


    IMG_5189.jpg
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  6. #6
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    Water heater building back pressure. Check to see if your pop off (T&P valve) has been popping off or weeping.
    Caused by one of the thermostats not cutting off.
    Last edited by Bownut; 05-01-2019 at 03:23 PM.

  7. #7
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    It’s tied back into the loop from what I can tell. Another reason I think the PRV has failed is no matter how much I turn the set screw the pressure won’t change after bleeding water off the system. The pressure seems to be the same up and down stream.
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  8. #8
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    Unless you got some insane amount of psi coming into your house I would do away with it all together.

  9. #9
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    It's reading high. The part that boggles me is when multiple faucets open, the pressure drops down close to 20 psi. This is what leads me to believe the PRV has failed.

    Hail call for plumbers that can add any insight!
    The right to bear arms is the last form of defense against tyranny.

  10. #10
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    What's your pressure with no faucets open? Where are checking pressure?

  11. #11
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    I have a hosebib that is before the PRV and two after as well as the drain on the water heater. They all read the same before opening faucets. I put the pressure gauge on the water heater since it's close to the PRV and started opening faucets and that's when I see it drop.
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  12. #12
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    What's your pressure reading with no faucets open?

  13. #13
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    130
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  14. #14
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    They are easy to pull apart, just a spring and rubber diaphragm. Usually the rubber diaphragm starts to separate and has bubbles between the layers. Most pump companies have rebuild kits in stock for that prv

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by carolinaboy06 View Post
    130
    That's at the hose bib before the PRV I assume or are you getting the same pressure after the PRV? If after, it's definitely bad and should be replaced. 130 is a little higher you'd typically want.

  16. #16
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    I’m getting that pressure before and after the PRV.
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  17. #17
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    130 psi is way higher then it needs to be. Most to every meter from a country I have ever worked with only puts out 60psi. As for the pressure dropping every time you open a faucet that Is normal. Think of it like an air compressor. If you have an open air hose the compressor will never build up to it was unless the hose is capped off. You will not keep 130 psi with a fixture running.

  18. #18
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    New PRV and ball valve and we're in business. It was supposedly preset to 50 psi, but my gauge says 60. After turning faucets on and off I was seeing less than 10psi drop, which from what I read is normal. My old one was allowing full city pressure and then would drop to 20 once you opened some faucets.

    I opened the strainer on the old PRV and it had a little bit or crud/small rock, but nothing to cause too much trouble.

    Thanks for your replies.
    The right to bear arms is the last form of defense against tyranny.

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