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Thread: anyone do fiberglass repair ? need advise on a patch

  1. #21
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    anyone have any tan / brown pigment they mind shipping?

  2. #22
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    If I am using West Marine 105 epoxy / 205 hardener.. what filler should I use ? 403, 405, 407, 410.. the list is too large !

  3. #23
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  4. #24
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    nice!! thank you

  5. #25
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    if you look at my earlier keel picture in this topic.. the gouge is only the size of my thumb nail. Its nothing that large, but there is a lot of scraping on the keel. So I have found the West Marine kit, but it comes with fiberglass mat, not cloth. Is that ok to just cut a small amount to put inside the gouge and built it up that way? Or do I need to actually sand down the keel even more to built that area back up?

    And either way, do I need to mat/cloth the entire length of the exposed keel, or just mat/cloth the gouge, and then resin the entire keel ? I feel like if I mat the entire exposed keel, that will pop it out pretty thick.

  6. #26
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    Use your mat as a base layer. Then do a couple of layers of cloth over depending on the oz cloth your are using. Then buy gel coat or a fairing compound I think 406 or 407 and sand it. If you use the fairing compound you will have to paint over it. Use the mat for structural damage/damage to the fiberglass and use the cloth over anything that had chipped. You will bed enough cloth to where it can build up to close to the thickness as it was originally. Sand before you start the job, between layers and as I said after.

    The fairing compound is used to create a smooth surface because when the last layer of cloth dries there will be a bunch of dimples that won’t smooth out unless you build it up with gel coat instead

    Go with high density to fill in the holes. But make sure you don’t use too much because it’s a pia to sand.
    Last edited by cam1195; 03-19-2019 at 03:19 PM.

  7. #27
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    how long do I let dry in between layers ?
    and do I have to sand in between layers of each cloth layer ? or just before I start and after all are done ? If I have to sand in between each layer, what grit ?
    Last edited by duckz; 03-19-2019 at 04:05 PM.

  8. #28
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    Not trying to be an ass, but just do a quick google or youtube search on this stuff. The boatworks today channel on youtube has some great info on the exact fixes you are working on

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckz View Post
    how long do I let dry in between layers ?
    and do I have to sand in between layers of each cloth layer ? or just before I start and after all are done ? If I have to sand in between each layer, what grit ?
    Let it dry til it’s hard. And sand it then apply next layer. And then sand it smooth. I’d use 80 grit first then smooth with 120
    867-5309

  10. #30
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    Before you apply first glass you have to sand down to original glass
    867-5309

  11. #31
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    ^what he said. It’s sounds like the west systems how to manual is what you need. It tells you everything you need to know along with min and max temps and dew point ranges for when is an optimal time to do the work. It will also tell you curing times dependent on what the ambient temperature is. YouTube also helps in figuring out the basic steps.

  12. #32
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    Duckz, clear out your PM files and I can get back to you on shipping that material.

    Agreed on reading the material out there on West Systems' website and other general forums. Doing a mediocre job is pretty simple, but doing fiberglass work to the "T" can take some effort.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chasbeau1 View Post
    Duckz, clear out your PM files and I can get back to you on shipping that material.

    Agreed on reading the material out there on West Systems' website and other general forums. Doing a mediocre job is pretty simple, but doing fiberglass work to the "T" can take some effort.
    done! sorry bout that, I didn't realize I was full.

    I saw the West Systems has kits, i am going to get the larger quantities so I will google for the manual to read up on before I start. thanks
    Last edited by duckz; 03-20-2019 at 07:52 AM.

  14. #34
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    Ok I’m doing this!

    I took two pictures of where I sanded down today. 80grit,

    Tried to make a V cut in the first picture. But it won’t V very well on the top side.. should I keep sanding or is that good enough?

    Picture2 & 3 - wasn’t actually a deep huge like I thought. I think either that picture made I look worse than it was, or I got it smoothed out easily. Either way it’s as smooth as a babies butt. Do I still need to add multiple fiberglass layers? Maybe just one or two, or just resin over?

    D4687106-EFFC-4789-8CFF-05432830F07B.jpg

    EBA7BBDF-C9BB-4510-B9DF-8D66D41E2E8E.jpg
    C1459806-ACBC-4DBC-9BDD-385B513B6343.jpg
    Last edited by duckz; 03-21-2019 at 04:48 PM.

  15. #35
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    don't over think this. Take a putty knife and run some filler down those gouges.
    Sand afterwards (I use a cordless grinder and make quick work of it) and repeat until you like it and have it shaped correctly, then
    paint it with resin and while the resin is wet, place strips of glass cloth on the wet resin and squeegee the air
    pockets out. Let that dry and repeat until as many layers of glass as you want.
    Let each layer of glass be a few inches wider than the previous. Then sand and feather the edges out.
    Then just put some matching gel coat over it and wet sand for a perfect finish or a good marine two part paint.
    easy peezy
    Last edited by ecu1984; 03-21-2019 at 06:19 PM.
    Meet Dick, Dick is a Climp5in fan.....Don't be a Dick

  16. #36
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    Can I use mineral spirits or liqueur thinner to prep the area before applying the glass?
    Or do I have to use acetone?
    Last edited by duckz; 03-27-2019 at 07:26 PM.

  17. #37
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    Ok I went out today just to clean up another spot I want to fix, and I noticed some of the paint peeling at the top, just underneath the gunwale. Just below the plastic trim that goes all around the boat. This may change my plans.. I was going to just clean up the big spots I already posted about but if this is a problem, I may fill in all the scratches and re-paint.

    I attached a picture but is that gel coat or is that paint? Can I use any Bottom Paint over this or is this a bigger deal that I should just leave alone ?
    7447FD3F-153E-4E85-B466-325962DE30FB.jpg

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckz View Post
    Ok I went out today just to clean up another spot I want to fix, and I noticed some of the paint peeling at the top, just underneath the gunwale. Just below the plastic trim that goes all around the boat. This may change my plans.. I was going to just clean up the big spots I already posted about but if this is a problem, I may fill in all the scratches and re-paint.

    I attached a picture but is that gel coat or is that paint? Can I use any Bottom Paint over this or is this a bigger deal that I should just leave alone ?
    7447FD3F-153E-4E85-B466-325962DE30FB.jpg
    It looks like caulking under the rub rail coming loose that had paint over it. Whatever it is, just scrape it off and clean it up
    Meet Dick, Dick is a Climp5in fan.....Don't be a Dick

  19. #39
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    Here another view, mayb this helps. It definitely not caulk, you can peel the paint back like a vinyl wrap in a car. It’s up and down the boat, it’s that this is under that ledge so I never saw it

    E23347C1-005E-4B00-A9A9-7738D5B965CC.jpg
    Last edited by duckz; 03-29-2019 at 06:48 AM.

  20. #40
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    so what are we thinking.. If I wanted to repaint the boat do I have to peel the entire boat off ? I tried sanding a test spot but you can still peel it back.

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