'16+ Chevy 2500 or '16+ Ram 2500

[waterbreaker]

Beginning to look at a newer truck to tow the 5th wheel. I'm a Ram fan due to my current '01 2500 that I bought new. 380k and not one engine issues. Hard to beat the 24 valve Cummins. Truck has held up well except the dash and driver's seat which I've fixed and it's still a great truck and I'd hook the camper up and head anywhere today but it's not that comfortable for the family on Long trips. We want to venture farther but the truck is limiting us. Don't know much about the newer ones. I think the Chevy is the better truck if you exclude the power plant. I own 2 suburbans and have had several Tahoe's. Other than the 5.3 AFM issues that KRT fixed last year I've hardly had any issues. I know the Chevy will likely cost more but believe it will probably hold up longer. I've heard the Duramax is very expensive once there's a problem. Looking for pros and cons from people with experience not just the Ford vs Chevy vs Ram crowd.

[KRT]

If you go Duramax, get a 17.

I can tell you from “experience” they all have their own issues. You won’t go wrong with either.

[KRT]

Drive both and buy the one that feels right.

Ram still has 100k powertrain warranty on diesel powered trucks.

[Southernduck]

IMO if it is just going to pound the pavement you are good with either. If the truck is expected to leave the pavement you better buy something other than a GM otherwise you will leave important shit on every bump and dip you hit. Never understood why the DEF tank hangs below the frame rail behind the front tire. The Chevy will probably ride better on the road and I wish I could get an Allison transmission in my ram though the 68rfe has been fine. To round it all out they are all way overpriced. Keep your current truck and send the family ahead on a plane or in a little car because they don’t make them as good as the old 24v anymore.

[KRT]

Independent front suspension may ride better but a solid front axle can’t be beat...

68RFE has come a long way since 2013

Although you have to step up to a 3500 to get the Aisin trans, It will hold it’s on against Allison.

[waterbreaker]

Can you elaborate on '16 vs '17. Have a chance to buy a '16 high country about 10k below kbb. 9,500 miles. Truck will never go off-road. Probably will never sell my 24valve.

[waterbreaker]

KRT, what needs to be done to either of them to fix factory issues. My 24v has a fass pump and edge programmer.

[Bad Habit]

Beginning to look at a newer truck to tow the 5th wheel. I'm a Ram fan due to my current '01 2500 that I bought new. 380k and not one engine issues. Hard to beat the 24 valve Cummins. Truck has held up well except the dash and driver's seat which I've fixed and it's still a great truck and I'd hook the camper up and head anywhere today but it's not that comfortable

where you at and when you wanna sell the dodge?

[waterbreaker]

where you at and when you wanna sell the dodge?

Everything is for sale but it's unlikely I'd let it go. Feel free to make me an offer!

[wdhigh]

5A3742EE-6899-4DB1-9765-99F9BA02CF96.jpg

[Steelin' Ducks]

English?

[Black Bart]

English?

Apparently, those HPP dudes have created a that allows the truck to make 600HP.

[Steelin' Ducks]

Apparently, those HPP dudes have created a that allows the truck to make 600HP.

Ok thanks for being my terp... I do not speak Grease monkey, tech nerd or #.

So what kinda mpg will 600hp get me?

[Black Bart]

Ok thanks for being my terp... I do not speak Grease monkey, tech nerd or #.

So what kinda mpg will 600hp get me?

Not many, but I bet it'll roll some coal like nobody's bidness...

[Steelin' Ducks]

So it’s pointless? I can gain 150ish horses but no mpg?

[wdhigh]

Sorry, only posted because I haven’t heard of the l5p as being tuneable yet. Saw smoke on the video so I assume the emissions delete is finally here.

[wdhigh]

Attachment 39134

[KRT]

Can you elaborate on '16 vs '17. Have a chance to buy a '16 high country about 10k below kbb. 9,500 miles. Truck will never go off-road. Probably will never sell my 24valve.

The 11-16 Duramax code named LML have a fuel system known for failure. I believe I have a thread on here. The high pressure pumps (CP4) come apart and contaminate the entire system with metal shavings costing 9 to 10,000.00 in repairs. I’ve done 2 and both were 16’s. The 17 code named L5P Duramax is a redesigned engine and they went back to a lift pump design fuel system which is a lot more reliable.

I would do a “street delete” to any of them. SCR,EGR, DPF, and DEF delete. Put a shift on the fly switch in and tune it.

If I owned a 2011-2016 Duramax, other than the mentioned above it would get an Airdog lift pump installed immediately. Even if I didn’t delete the truck I’d install a lift pump. $1300.00 for a added lift pump is a great insurance policy.

If the price is right on the 16, get it and bring it to me. I’ll get it more reliable for you.

[KRT]

https://scducks.com/forum/showthread...highlight=2016

[Duckkiller]

The 11-16 Duramax code named LML have a fuel system known for failure. I believe I have a thread on here. The high pressure pumps (CP4) come apart and contaminate the entire system with metal shavings costing 9 to 10,000.00 in repairs. I’ve done 2 and both were 16’s. The 17 code named L5P Duramax is a redesigned engine and they went back to a lift pump design fuel system which is a lot more reliable.

I would do a “street delete” to any of them. SCR,EGR, DPF, and DEF delete. Put a shift on the fly switch in and tune it.

If I owned a 2011-2016 Duramax, other than the mentioned above it would get an Airdog lift pump installed immediately. Even if I didn’t delete the truck I’d install a lift pump. $1300.00 for a added lift pump is a great insurance policy.

If the price is right on the 16, get it and bring it to me. I’ll get it more reliable for you.

The above happened to my 16 duramax with 46000 miles. She gone now. L5P is good so far in the 17-18