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Thread: Pouring concrete after carport was installed

  1. #41
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  2. #42
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    Run 2 bys (not sure how wide they would need to be, but judge by weight of building) down each side and screw into posts. May have to join together to make long enough and strengthen. Jack up at four corners. Pour concrete.

  3. #43
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    i didn't do a slab to begin with because i wasn't sure if this was going to be a permanent fixture. Its an RV cover. Wasn't sure if the family would use it/like it. Now that we know it'll be sticking around, i'd like to pour a pad. I dont like the idea of encasing the legs. Too permanent for me. Might add on to carport later, who knows. I think i'm going to stack 2, 4" bricks, pour a 4" pad, remove top brick to set back on concrete. That'll give the finishers a little room under the legs to work.

  4. #44
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    if you have 4" of clearance.....ummm never mind. do it your way. its been fun being a part of it. (not really)
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

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  6. #46
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    Some of y’all could complicate taking a shit. Concrete brick turned on edge under each support. Maybe put a 1’X1’ square of plywood under it if the soil is soft. Pour to it. A 6X6 or CMU with a scrap of wood on it and a pry bar to lift it up. Take you about 30 minutes to an hour to pick it up. Pre drill anchor bolts in the bottom rail and insert prior to pouring.
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saltydog235 View Post
    Some of y’all could complicate taking a shit. Concrete brick turned on edge under each support. Maybe put a 1’X1’ square of plywood under it if the soil is soft. Pour to it. A 6X6 or CMU with a scrap of wood on it and a pry bar to lift it up. Take you about 30 minutes to an hour to pick it up. Pre drill anchor bolts in the bottom rail and insert prior to pouring.
    Yep, that's the best plan.

  8. #48
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    right. because its so much less complicated to lift that thing rather than pour a slab inside of it and lose 4" of clearance and 2" off each side....

    but, hey, I'm a Simple Man.
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  9. #49
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    You could definitely get a sky hook and that would be the best option...

    They are alot cheaper than Cranes.. Probably like $100 a week..

    Call your nearest rental company.. Hertz, Sunbelt, etc..
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  10. #50
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    ^i hate you people^
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    right. because its so much less complicated to lift that thing rather than pour a slab inside of it and lose 4" of clearance and 2" off each side....

    but, hey, I'm a Simple Man.
    Being simple minded and a simple man are two different things, let's not get them confused.
    Last edited by Duck cutter; 09-18-2018 at 02:08 PM.
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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    ^i hate you people^
    SkyHooks are amazing..

    Relatively cheap and easy to operate..
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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBiz View Post
    SkyHooks are amazing..

    Relatively cheap and easy to operate..
    Only if you can get the blue ones. That red model is horrible.

    Crane is still the answer...

  14. #54
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    either of these methods could work




  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2thDoc View Post
    right. because its so much less complicated to lift that thing rather than pour a slab inside of it and lose 4" of clearance and 2" off each side....

    but, hey, I'm a Simple Man.
    I'm with toof on this one. Keep it simple.
    You've got the shed in place, leave it where it is. Assuming you already have the RV that will be parked under it and have checked for vertical clearance, pour inside of it using the thinnest material possible (3/8" plywood ripped down?) for form boards along the sides.
    If you ever have the need or desire to lift it later for any reason it shouldn't be a problem.

  16. #56
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    Sky hook has my vote as well
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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by scatter shot View Post
    I'm with toof on this one. Keep it simple.
    You've got the shed in place, leave it where it is. Assuming you already have the RV that will be parked under it and have checked for vertical clearance, pour inside of it using the thinnest material possible (3/8" plywood ripped down?) for form boards along the sides.
    If you ever have the need or desire to lift it later for any reason it shouldn't be a problem.
    y'all pay attention. They call this "winning."
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  18. #58
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    Default Pouring concrete after carport was installed

    Bobcat. Grade down 3” inches inside and under shed. Pour slab inside legs. Don’t have to move and and lose none to minimal clearance.
    Last edited by Glenn; 09-19-2018 at 07:57 AM.

  19. #59
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    looser
    Ugh. Stupid people piss me off.

  20. #60
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    It's entirely obvious to me who on this forum has actually built something and/or poured concrete.
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