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Thread: Need help with a switching problem..

  1. #1
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    The new dog (2 y/o YLF) likes to switch. I can throw a bumber and toss two off to the sides while her back is to me and she'll get all three without a problem (in short grass), but if I throw more than one for her to mark she'll go to the last one thrown and take it to the next and drop it, pick the one there and so on till she gets to the first one thrown then retrieve it. After the first is delivered she'll go get the one she's sent to and bring it back without hesitation. What gives and how can I fix it? Check cord maybe?

  2. #2
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    You may try throwing the marks with some kind of barrier in between them,The end of a fence or corner of a pond works well, Or try throwing one then turn 180 and throw the second one. The more she does it the right way then start bring them back around closer and closer.
    .
    80-20 Genaration

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I'll give that a go. Going to the water this evening. The way the pond is laid out there's no natural barriers created there but there's plenty of room for the 180 idea.

  4. #4
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    Don't throw uncontrolled multiple marks until you have this licked. DMan's suggestion is right on. Stand at the end of a fence or at the corner of a fence or the corner of the house so she has to come back to you after picking up the first one (last bird down). Runt these types of marks a few days in a row in a few different places.

    Then go to the 180 marks and run them for a few days. Simple stuff. The only thing that should be hard about it is coming back to you before picking up the memory bird.

    I would then progress to simple doubles widely separated with a check cord so you can prevent her from going to the memory bird. Just progress on like this and you will fix it in a few days. Simple problem but one you want to get a handle on quickly.
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  5. #5
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    10-4, thank you sir. I kept it simple for her this afternoon, but then decided to give the 180 a try. She was flawless on the first then bypassed me on the second and got both bumpers in mouth and brought them back together. I went to the 180 as a blind a few times with the usual success then tried it again as a mark and she was good on the first try so I called it a night while I was still ahead. This is only my second day with this dog and I'm still trying to get a feel for where she's at and what she can and can't handle.

  6. #6
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    i would start a little before that. i would go with making sure the dog has been force fetched. i know no one wanted to hear that but its a sure fire way of making sure your dog doesnt drop what it already had. and you need to teach the dog what "here" means. and i mean really teach her what it means. that way if you tell the dog here it will come here instead of going to the other birds. Everything revolves around the basics!
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  7. #7
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    Good point HC.

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    I agree with HC on the "here" command...that is the whole point of these exercises.

    I would not approach this as an FF issue. The "fetching" or force side of this could possibly fix part of this problem...it won't fix the whole problem and that is the dog returning to you after picking up a mark. Always evaluate your problems from your fundamentals up. FF is a fundamental but it is secondary to "here" (and much harder to mess with).

    I avoid making an issue a FF issue if I can help it.
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  9. #9
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    ALL hunting dogs should be force fetched to get the most out of them that they are capable of doing. If you are satisfied and happy with less,
    that's your personal decision. Not only does it teach them to hold onto what they are retrieving until they deliver it but more important, it let's them know that they are no longer running fat, dumb, and happy. They are doing it because they are told and not just because they want to. As for the switching, there are several ways to cure this problem. All dogs will do it eventually unless they are "cured" right away or best yet before they start. The absolute best and fastest way it a drill called "corn cobbing" or dirt clodding". If you are interested and need to know how to do this simple drill, call me and I'll explain it to you. 843 835-2505.
    Marc

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    I beieve that he not only knows how to call ducks but the basics of retriever psychology. Good job Marc

  11. #11
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    Will do Marc, thanks.

  12. #12
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    Switching has been cured. I reverted to crazed lunatic method and just went verbally ballistic on her when she tried it, she ain't thought about doing it since, lol. BDM, I need some CFHRC info if ya don't mind., PM or email dalton916@gmail.com...

  13. #13
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    Originally posted by Tater:
    I reverted to crazed lunatic method and just went verbally ballistic on her when she tried it, she ain't thought about doing it since
    [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/rock_band.gif[/img]
    They say the only time a fishermen tells the truth is when he tells you another fisherman is a liar.

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