Remington 700 BDl Stock Refinish

[whistlinwingswilly]

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Stripped the finish off of this stock, now trying to decide what oil to finish it with. Thinking either pure Tung oil or Tru oil, anybody have any experience with this type of wood?

[nitro5x6's]

Tru Oil is hard to beat.

[rrconductor]

Multiple coats of tru oil and plenty of sanding between only after pores are filled.Tape off the checkering and fill with a toothbrush when finished with the true oil.

[ccleroy]

x3 on Tru Oil.

[CWPINST]

Well it is too late now but the easiest thing to have done would’ve been to rub it down with 0000 steel wool . you could’ve done the whole stock in a beautiful satin finish in about 10 minutes. But since it is too late now just use tru-oil and a lot of coats waiting a day or so in between coats. We discussed this about a month or two ago. By far the easiest thing to have done would’ve been to use the steel wool. So for others pondering this laborious job please try the steel wool first. If you want a more matte finish use the 000 steel wool. I learned that trick from Owen Jeffrey at Jeffery archery

[Pcole]

If you are a patient man, Tru oil is good stuff. I did the stock on my Mauser . Remember, Tru oil is OIL, not a coating material. You have to apply it and let enough get in the wood that it stops soaking it up and starts to build enough layers that you can buff it with steel wool to amount of shine you want. mellocollins gave me the advice that kept me from making kindling out of mine.

[rrconductor]

Be careful buffing with steel wool if the pores are not filled the wool will sluff off into the pores. Pcole is right, you have to cut back the rough spots and then apply more tru oil until it stops soaking in. Raw wood it is not uncommon for it to be 15 -20 coats, Remmys that used Def pores are likely filled will use less coats. Try fine grades of scotchbrite instead of SW and you will have the same results.If you did not tape off the forend tip and grip cap you will need to polish them afterwards, and tape off the checkering so it does not get a buildup of tru oil.

[whistlinwingswilly]

Final product...sort of. Used tung oil cut with turpentine and wet sanded up to 400 grit to fill the grain. After that used rubbing compound then Johnson paste wax. Now I’m trying to talk myself into trying my hand at checkering.


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[YoungBuckTX]

Not bad. Im gonna give it a try on a walnut stock when season goes out. How many hours job is this approx?

[rrconductor]

Are you going to try and checker the 700 stock? You do realize that is pressed in , in other words the diamond point are going in not facing out.

[whistlinwingswilly]

Yeah, this stock is something a gunsmith had laying around, so this more of a practice piece. I had heard of people raising pressed checkering, and I haven’t found enough information on it to decide if it’s feasible or not.


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[whistlinwingswilly]

Not bad. Im gonna give it a try on a walnut stock when season goes out. How many hours job is this approx?

I started this at the beginning of October. After stripping the old finish it was 20-30 minutes every 3-4 days, giving ample time for the oil to dry. I wouldn’t think of a project like this in terms of hours.


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[Carolina]

Mind sharing how you stripped it? I've read acetone soak, but that just seems like a bad idea to me. I have a few projects on the backburner that are going to require a full refinish, and I'm not sure where to start.

[whistlinwingswilly]

I used rust oleum aircraft remover then scrapped it off with a razor blade. Unless your specifically dealing with that Remington DuPont finish, I would imagine regular wood stripper would work fine. To give you an idea how strong it is, the aircraft remover ate through a pair of nitrile gloves, so I wouldn’t use it unless I had to.


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[Moonlight Hunter]

Final product...sort of. Used tung oil cut with turpentine and wet sanded up to 400 grit to fill the grain. After that used rubbing compound then Johnson paste wax. Now I’m trying to talk myself into trying my hand at checkering.


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Fine work, sir.