Sighting in broadheads???????

[scdukcaller]

I need some advice. Every year I sight my bow in and get where I can put three shots in the heart on my target at 30 yards on a consistent basis, but when I put my broadheads on my shots go all over the place and I am basically back at square one. I sight my bow in for the broadheads. How can I get them to shoot the same.

[Rebel Yell]

What kinda heads are you shooting?

First spin test your arrows with the bheads on. IF!!! they spin true then you need to tune your bow to shoot broadheads. Go to thje Easton website Tuning Guide

download the tuning guide, it will tell you how to tune your bow to shoot fixed blade heads. I printed it off at work and bound it and I keep it in my bowcase for quick reference.

IF!!! you heads don't spin true, then the inserts need squaring up, or the inserts are shit, or the heads are shit.

I spin all my bhead and arrow combos on an arrow spinner and I bought an insert squaring tool from G5. My broadheads (100 grain 4 blade Magnus Stingers)hit right with my field points out to 50 yards - or as good as I can shoot out to 50 yards anyway.

[BugBuster]

SCDC, I shoot 3 blade 100 grain muzzy heads and they shoot pretty much the same as my field points. Also, I have shot expandable heads as well and they shoot like field points for the most part.

You might want to check the aligment of your rest and your bow string. If the rest is too far out of line, it will be more noticeable with broadheads and result in inconsistant shots. I think Joe has a laser to check the alignment.

Give me a shout if you need me.

[scdukcaller]

My broadheads are shooting high to the right. All of them!I think i may go buy some rage broadheads and see if they shoot like my field tips. I hate to start moving things around on the bow. I had the laser put on the bow last week, when i bought the new rest. So I would assume its straight for the most part....

[SCTIMBER]

Had a buddy that bowhunts and told me he had the same problem one time, sadly enough I can't remember what he did to correct it.

[CWPINST]

Broadheads add length which effectively reduces spine, so the fact that they weigh the same as your field points means absolutely nothing! They also add another plane(s) to catch air and steer the arrow. It sounds like your arrows are on the ragged edge of being too soft in spine. Reduce the bow weight by 5 pounds and see if they still fly eratically. It is totally normal that broadheads have a different point of impact (but they should be made to group well). If they happen to shoot to the same POI as field points just smile and enjoy your good fortune. Archery 101.

[Rebel Yell]

Broadheads hitting "all over the place" is a little different than hitting high right "all of them"

Assuming you are right handed, and the bheads are grouping well, and the heads are aligned correctly with the shaft...

raise our knock point in increments of 1/16" at a time until the fpoints and bheads are at the same elevation - they will come together

then move your rest in increments of 1/16" to the left until the fpoints and bheads have the same windage

You may have to resight, but your bow will be tuned very well.

When your bow is tuned, it IS perfectly normal for the broadheads and the field points to have the same POI

[Glenn]

Buying an expensive mechanical head isn't going to fix a tuning problem. Tune the bow with the advice above to shoot a fixed blade head and move on.

Mechanical heads are a way to get out of doing the work right.

[Duckman#1]

They also add another plane(s) to catch air and steer the arrow. It sounds like your arrows are on the ragged edge of being too soft in spine. Reduce the bow weight by 5 pounds and see if they still fly eratically.

Shooting vented blade broadheads helps with the planing issue.
There is a LOT to be said for a well tuned bow and arrows built to MATCH your setup !

[FLS]

Spot on Glenn! Bow tuning is becoming a lost art, just buy another gadget to fix the problem. Learning to tune your equipment should be a prerequisite to being allowed to bowhunt.

[Glenn]

I've always believed you can get an axe head to fly well if the bow is tuned properly. Most who have trouble tuning for fixed blade heads overlook what's on the back of the arrow. Type of fletch and helical matter in stabilizing in flight.

Example; the heads I shoot have a width of 1 9/16 inches and weigh 160 grains. In todays world of archery that is a huge head and unheard of. 3 5" feathers in a hard right helical stabilize that head well. 30" total arrow length, weighs about 550 gr.

I personally think mech. heads suck but if you want to shoot 'em your bow needs to be tuned first (not used to tune your bow), your arrow needs to weigh enough and have enough momentum to open the heads and provide adequate penetration.

[tradorion]

And the congregation said AAAAAAA-MEN!!!!

Good call Glenn-- let me guess- You shooting Simmons LandSharks?? maybe Snuffers- but methinks Sharks- thats what is on some of my arrows as well as Snuffer 160's

I am a firm believer that if the bow is tuned the heads will fly. And if they don't more times than not it is a broadhead issue- i have seen a bow throw many different broadheads the same place as field points but have one brand or lot of a head that won't fly well...

TUNING IS HUGE!!

T

[Glenn]

You guessed it Trad. I love me some Simmons heads. You really want to have some fun, shoot something with that big 190 interceptor.

[CWPINST]

When arrows impact to the right for a right hand bow, it indicates a weaker spine. What does the flight of the arrows with the broadheads look like? Do they kick hard to one side or fishtail upon release. What type of fletching are you using. I use nothing but feathers. Shooting arrows that are dynamically weak in spine for your setup will make everything critical....especially your release. Weak spined arrows and broadheads are a recipe for tuning frustration. Again....back the weight down about 5 pounds and see if things get more consistent.

[Glenn]

Good info.

[WhitewaterDuck]

Man, I really hate to post this with the likes of Trad and the Allbarn fan on here, but if you want to get into tuning broadheads, get into shooting traditional. If you are going to be flinging from a cpd bow, just go buy some rage 2 blades and start to flinging with confidence and death capacity. Seriously, I love to get real personal with my tuning when I'm setting up some big Zwickeys to fly from my recurve, but with the CMPD, shoot, the reason you are shooting a cmpd over a recurve must be for the decreased margin of error it brings to the table. So if you are going to go there, why mess with tuning when you can get a cut on impact blade that flies like your field points and cuts a huge swath through anything it encounters? Of course that's just my opinion. Jump on me boyz.

[-Johnson Small-]

well then move your sight high and to the right, guzman, it dosent take a freakin rocket scientist, you dont need to mess with your tuning crap at all, you just need to set aside a few broadheads that you are using just for practing and shoot them to sight the bow in, once the bow is sighted in, screw off the practice blades and put on your hunting blades, the kind of broadhead you shoot and all that crap dosent matter.just make sure it goes along with your arrow weight. tell me what you have and ill be more than happy to help.

[firefuzz]

If you are setting up for hunting and not target shooting the answer is simple. Paper Tune your bow, then set your sights for broad heads and forget about field points.

[Glenn]

WWD, I shoot my Simmons off my Ballistik 'curve and my Adcock longbows. Compound vs. trad never entered my mind. Learn to tune your shit was my point. After you've done that, let 'em eat cake for all I care.

[CWPINST]

If you ever see a slow motion film of the arrow flight when it leaves your bow (especially with fingers) you will see that paper tuning has very little value (it will show nocking point issues though). For example if you see a tear to the left, just back up 2 steps and it will likely show no tearing, then back up 2 more steps and the tear will be to the right. ALL arrows have a fair bit of "wiggle" upon release. One that is not tuned properly will show more wiggle. The paper tuning fallacy was pretty much debunked in the late 80's when Easton released their high speed video.