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Thread: Brake Controllers

  1. #1
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    Default Brake Controllers

    What brands y’all use , pros and cons. The Dodge factory integrated brake controller is unreliable, it will show trailer connected, then not connected going down the road. I want something reliable with a OH SHIT button.


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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timsmith View Post
    What brands y’all use , pros and cons. The Dodge factory integrated brake controller is unreliable, it will show trailer connected, then not connected going down the road. I want something reliable with a OH SHIT button.


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    Unplug it from the back of the bracket and drain the water out of it. My '13 was bad about that. The '16 never gave me an issue.
    Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn't go so far as to call a dog filthy but they're definitely dirty. But, a dog's got personality. Personality goes a long way.


    You might take out a dozen before they drag you from your home and skull fuck you to death. Marsh Chicken 6/21/2013

  3. #3
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    I use my factory integrated one.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saltydog235 View Post
    Unplug it from the back of the bracket and drain the water out of it. My '13 was bad about that. The '16 never gave me an issue.
    How about the braking? The factory controller seems weak, when it didn’t act up.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Timsmith View Post
    How about the braking? The factory controller seems weak, when it didn’t act up.


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    Never had an issue, set the gain, hit the jake brake button and rolled on. The one on this Ford is strong as goat piss though, had to adjust it way down, though I like the jake brake on the Cummins more.
    Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn't go so far as to call a dog filthy but they're definitely dirty. But, a dog's got personality. Personality goes a long way.


    You might take out a dozen before they drag you from your home and skull fuck you to death. Marsh Chicken 6/21/2013

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saltydog235 View Post
    Never had an issue, set the gain, hit the jake brake button and rolled on. The one on this Ford is strong as goat piss though, had to adjust it way down, though I like the jake brake on the Cummins more.
    So unplug and drain water where it plugs into back of plug by the license plate, and yes the Jake brake will stop it


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  7. #7
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    Should have bought a Ford. Mine has an oh shit lever and ability to adjust on the fly.

    When I had to add one to the last truck I went with a prodigy and was happy with it. Just be sure to mount it somewhere your boots don't catch it when you jump in. But seriously I would try to make the factory one work if at all possible.The trailer disconnected option has saved me when I had a plug come loose. Since the latch/lock is broke on it my plug it now has some electrical tape on it to help hold it in place.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by uga_dawg View Post
    Should have bought a Ford. Mine has an oh shit lever and ability to adjust on the fly.

    When I had to add one to the last truck I went with a prodigy and was happy with it. Just be sure to mount it somewhere your boots don't catch it when you jump in. But seriously I would try to make the factory one work if at all possible.The trailer disconnected option has saved me when I had a plug come loose. Since the latch/lock is broke on it my plug it now has some electrical tape on it to help hold it in place.
    The trailer disconnected option is great, the problem is it has an issue with saying trailer is disconnected when a minute ago it was connected.


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  9. #9
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    Maybe it’s the resistance in the trailer wiring... you know the trailer side and not the truck. Just a thought.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRT View Post
    Maybe it’s the resistance in the trailer wiring... you know the trailer side and not the truck. Just a thought.
    I may run bigger wire for the brakes and see if it changes anything.


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  11. #11
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    I run the factory one. I’ve had my truck do the same thing and it ended up being the trailer wiring.
    Quote Originally Posted by Birddawg View Post
    I dont know how it was done. For all I know that weird bastard that determined it's gender licked it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timsmith View Post
    The trailer disconnected option is great, the problem is it has an issue with saying trailer is disconnected when a minute ago it was connected.


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    Well did you check to see if it is disconnected?

    Hope this helps.

    Seriously mine is sensitive. But I'd rather err on the side of caution. Check the connection as has been said. And duct tape that bitch if needed.

    And one more protip. Your lights/brakes don't work if you don't plug it up. I dealt with that 5 minutes into the current trip. Left in the rain in a hurry and wondered what was wrong.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timsmith View Post
    The trailer disconnected option is great, the problem is it has an issue with saying trailer is disconnected when a minute ago it was connected.


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    my 2013 Ford does that on occasion- with all 3 HD trailers- I manually apply the trailer brakes just a touch and it shows connected again. Note- my trailer brakes do work when it shows disconnected- but the lights flicker, I tested it.
    I have used electrical contact cleaner on both sides of the connectors and it stopped for a while- possibly dielectric grease might help maintain better contact
    Last edited by Bad Habit; 04-29-2018 at 07:59 PM.

  14. #14
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    I drove to Arkansas this past duck season and fought that aggravating ass message. It was dark and I could see my lights worked fine even when it said disconnected. Ended up being the male connector on the trailer.
    More fuel = more boost!!

  15. #15
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    Does this have anything to do with that big old piece of junk trailer you just bought?

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    I got a predator dx2 sitting in my garage I’ll sell you..

  17. #17
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    That message is a bad ground. Run all your wire to a common ground and see if it clears up. I had a trailer that was bad about that. Required everything to a junction box and pulled all the grounds on a common lug. Never saw the message again. But yes, that plug will get water in it and this get wacky with the EVIC system.
    Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn't go so far as to call a dog filthy but they're definitely dirty. But, a dog's got personality. Personality goes a long way.


    You might take out a dozen before they drag you from your home and skull fuck you to death. Marsh Chicken 6/21/2013

  18. #18
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    I agree with salty. I just had the same issue on my camper that Could have turned out real bad. I had a magnet go bad and nearly burned my bearings. I ended up having to order a new hub assembly, breaks and backing plate complete with bearings.

    I started with testing the truck with trailers at work to see if the message showed....no dice. Then I used a pigtail with fuse to check trailer wiring. Then moved to multimeter to test wiring on trailer. Once I narrowed it down I rewired the entire brake system and pulled all the hubs. The rear wheel on right side was toast. The magnet was destroyed, therefore no closed circuit. As soon as I popped the dust cap off the wheel I could smell the burnt grease. Luckily I was in my yard and not on the side of the road. The first “trailer disconnected” message I got was coming down Saluda grade from Asheville.

    Good luck.
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  19. #19
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    I had a bad ground in my trailer cause the same message as well.

  20. #20
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    Got some 10 AWG for power to brakes and 12 AWG to ground. I’m thinking separate runs to each axle. How it is now one wire supply’s both axles and it a skinny wire.

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