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Thread: interpreting soil tests

  1. #1
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    Default interpreting soil tests

    If my soil test recommends 100 lbs of potassium and 30 lbs of phosphorus per acre, what does that mean in terms of fertilizer labeling....10-10-10, 0-20-20, etc?

  2. #2
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    Take your soil test results to a southern states, or other Ag supply and they will sell you what you need. That is what I have always done. I’m not a for profit farmer, just try to max out my ground for deer and turkey. Likely you will be in a 0-15-25 (or somewhere around there). They can also get you set up on a lime truck should you need it.

    ETA: bring your money bag. I had to buy 0-25-25 last year. Shit weren’t cheap
    Last edited by wiz18; 03-23-2018 at 01:07 PM.

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    You need to apply 300 pounds of a 0-10-30 or a 5-10-30 type fertilizer to get the level recommended. When I say 300 lbs of product, I mean 300 actual lbs. ex, 6x50 lb bags.
    U serious Clark?

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    Who makes a good, accurate soil test? Do y'all use a disposable kit, or do you have the electronic probes?

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    The N-P-K percentage on the bag (10-10-10 for example) tells what percentage of the total product in the bag is the three macro nutrients. If the bag is 50 lbs, the total weight of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium the bag contains is 5 lbs of each.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bart View Post
    Who makes a good, accurate soil test? Do y'all use a disposable kit, or do you have the electronic probes?
    Clemson Extension.

  8. #8
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    The best $6 you will spend food plot related. They have definitely helped me improve soil health and not waste money on fertilizer mixtures that I don’t need. Although Wiz18 is correct, the fertilizers I do need are pricey. I find it interesting and rewarding to see soil test changes year after year when you apply their recommendations.




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    Last edited by Johnny Reb; 03-23-2018 at 01:50 PM.

  9. #9
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    300 lbs of 0-10-30 will give you 30 pounds P and 90 pounds K. 300*.1=30 lbs P, 300*.3=90 lbs K
    same rate of 5-10-30 will give you 15 lbs N to go with.
    extra N causes top growth, you decide if you want that or not.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the replies.

    I'm planting different stuff in different plots and the tests gave me recommendations for each. It already saved me money on lime. Five out of six fields don't need it. I was ready to stroke a check for a bunch everywhere.

    How do I find what fertilizer blends are available? I know there is 10-10-10 and such but do I have to monkey with blends that may not have the proportions I want and may have nitrogen, for instance, that I don't need? Do most places carry straight phosphorus, potassium, or nitrogen granular fertilizer....0-0-20, 20-0-0 or 0-20-0, etc.?

  11. #11
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    We can make a custom blend

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Palmetto Bug View Post
    Thanks for all the replies.

    I'm planting different stuff in different plots and the tests gave me recommendations for each. It already saved me money on lime. Five out of six fields don't need it. I was ready to stroke a check for a bunch everywhere.

    How do I find what fertilizer blends are available? I know there is 10-10-10 and such but do I have to monkey with blends that may not have the proportions I want and may have nitrogen, for instance, that I don't need? Do most places carry straight phosphorus, potassium, or nitrogen granular fertilizer....0-0-20, 20-0-0 or 0-20-0, etc.?
    I would put out a low or no nitrogen blend and then come back with a light rate of pure nitrogen as a top dressing once your crops have emerged a ways.


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  13. #13
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    So now I have a two row planter with a fertilizer hoppers. Do I prep the soil using the spin spreader with the recommended fertilizers from the soil test first and then add something else, like 10-10-10 to the planter to supplement?

    The previous owner had the fertilizer chain drives deactivated. Is it worth the bother to use the planter to add fertilizer?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Palmetto Bug View Post
    So now I have a two row planter with a fertilizer hoppers. Do I prep the soil using the spin spreader with the recommended fertilizers from the soil test first and then add something else, like 10-10-10 to the planter to supplement?

    The previous owner had the fertilizer chain drives deactivated. Is it worth the bother to use the planter to add fertilizer?
    I always broadcast my fertilizer. The drill we rent from the ag extension has a fert hopper, but I’ve never bothered with it. I have a Moultrie spreader that attaches to the back of my 4 wheeler and it has worked great. I can be on the tractor dragging the drill and have someone else on the Honda slinging fertilizer. You can cover some ground in a day.

  15. #15
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    Here is a good link to check your math for Fertilizer calculations.

    Input the N-P-K recommendations from your soil test,
    Select Farm use and the fert. blend or input your own (ex: 19-19-19) in Yellow box,
    change pounds per to # Acre,
    then Calculate.

    http://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/

  16. #16
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    I just went to the place where Whackumstackum works and had them mix a couple custom blends and put it in bulk bags. I put out about half of it last weekend with a spin spreader.

    I think I'm going to reserve some of the blend I got for the sunflowers to put in the planter hoppers after I broadcast the rest. I plan to come back after they are out of the ground and hit them with nitrogen.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hosscat View Post
    The N-P-K percentage on the bag (10-10-10 for example) tells what percentage of the total product in the bag is the three macro nutrients. If the bag is 50 lbs, the total weight of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium the bag contains is 5 lbs of each.
    This is as simple as you can explain it. The only thing I would add is that the numbers are for 100 pounds. So in your example 100#'s of 10-10-10 would give you 10 pounds per acre. Hence why 50# gives you said 5lb.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by uga_dawg View Post
    This is as simple as you can explain it. The only thing I would add is that the numbers are for 100 pounds. So in your example 100#'s of 10-10-10 would give you 10 pounds per acre. Hence why 50# gives you said 5lb.
    Good point. I do the 100# example for high schoolers. I was giving everyone the benefit of the doubt.

  19. #19
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    I didn't have any problem figuring out how much of each component was in a bag. My problem was figuring out what blends were offered to match the ratio my soil tests called for. Custom blending was the easiest and least expensive solution.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Palmetto Bug View Post
    I didn't have any problem figuring out how much of each component was in a bag. My problem was figuring out what blends were offered to match the ratio my soil tests called for. Custom blending was the easiest and least expensive solution.
    Good deal. Taking that soil analysis to a dirt doctor and getting the right prescription is the best way to do any improvements in a cost effective manner. Many people blindly throw lime and 10-10-10 at their piece of earth and say things like, "Bo I just get me some of that 10-10-10 cuz pappy used that in his garden back in the fiddy's." They effectively waste time and money not improving and maintaining soil health and quality for the future.

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