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Thread: HVAC Guys

  1. #1
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    Default HVAC Guys

    We are in the process of getting quotes to have our system replaced. Since we have started getting quotes, I feel like I have more questions than answers about this whole process and what unit/brand to get. Here is background:

    House is 20 years old and unit (a Goodman) is original to the house. House is 1,550 sf with 13 air vents, single story.

    I'll preface this with the fact that we knew replacing the unit would be something we would probably need to do in the near future when we bought the house two years ago. A month ago it quit while we were at the beach. Got a company to come and look at it and freon was low. They put 3lbs of freon in and said that will fix it but if there is a leak it will happen again. This weekend it happened again. They came Saturday and put more in it but said that for it to go that quick, a coil has a pretty serious leak. It went out again this morning, same thing, low freon from leak. We talked to them and they said that they could replace the coil but there are no warranties and that another coil could go out and we are back in the same boat.

    So we have started getting quotes. All of the people who have come to give quotes have said we need everything replaced, unit and air handler. Is this true?

    We are going to be getting more quotes today but obviously with the unit not working again it is decision time. We plan on being in this house for another eight years or so. Is a Trane really worth the extra money? Al of the units appear to come with similar warranties.
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  2. #2
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    Interested to see replies on this. Im replacing and entire system in my renovation currently including ductwork and the price is scary to say the least.

  3. #3
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    I'm no HVAC guy, but with the changes in freon regulations (R22, 410A etc) you will probably need to replace everything.. the condenser, air handler etc. I went through this last last year with a guy I trust immensely, and had to replace the unit outside and the unit in the attic b/c he said you couldn't cross the systems b/c of the freon requirements. I know I'm speaking Greek, but I did preface it with the fact I'm not an HVAC guy.

  4. #4
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    Yes you will need to replace the entire unit. Condensor, air handler and maybe line sets. Your 20 year old unit is running R22 which is now outlawed by the EPA. It is no longer manufactured and the only R22 left is leftover cylinders of it and reclaimed refrigerant.

    You will get a new unit that has R410a in it, its supposed to be more environmentally friendly.

    You are in Greenwood, I got a guy for you that will do it right and will beat the rest of the prices if you are interested.

    The prices nowdays are rediculous
    Last edited by quack head 11; 07-19-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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  5. #5
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    We had a new split system put in last year for a house we sold earlier this year. 4 Ton Trane 14 or 15 seer with 95% furnace for $4k, but that wasn't with any new duct work involved. You're in Greenwood, Pm if you would like the contact.
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  6. #6
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    I replaced a 3 ton upstairs Comfort Spot unit last year. Got four quotes $10.5K, $9800, $6500 and $6300. All the quotes were for either Trane or American Standard. The two high priced quotes were for "branded" companies. The two low-priced quotes were for local guys. I went with the $6300 bid and couldn't be happier. The guys were clean and quick.

    My highest electric bill so far this summer was $159 compared to $310 or so for the summer months last year. I know some of the difference is weather but the unit certainly is more efficient.
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  7. #7
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    I don't do residential, so have no opinion on which brand is better, however, do not use the company you are using now. Anyone that makes three trips out, charges for refrigerant, and doesn't take an extra hour to check for the actual leak, needs to be run off with a shotgun. It could be as simple as a loose connection somewhere.

  8. #8
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    not an ac guy but likely yes. replace it all. Unless you or your buddy is doing it, its likely like a bass boat/motor combo for the consumer. Cheaper to buy together than separate. Also, everything was put in at the same time probably and if one thing is bad, more could be. I could make some suggestions from everything I learned over the last 5 years since mine was replaced.
    1) don't use sears, no matter what the deal
    2.)stay away from any unit with a high effiencey, variable speed, smart motor. HD44AR135 this one in particular. They are not suitable for the environment they live in and you will pay a service call to have it replaced every time you have the installer replace it under warranty. Not to mention the how ever long you are without ac.
    3.) They will likely reuse your existing wip, especially if you don't specify/pay for new. Those wires, especially the teeny low voltage to thermostat have been vibrating, pulled on, shifted around, stepped on and tugged about how ever long they were there. I'd let em replace em along with new pvc drain pipes and a new under unit pan. I guess what I'm saying, if there's any age on it, replace it all. You can likely haggle em down on wiring and such.
    4.)Check everything when they are done. Does anything move, shake slide, bounce? How are ref. lines supported? Are any lines touching anything, especially close to the air handler? If so, that's where your first leak will be. Is the wip to outside unit nice, straight and is there plenty of it so its not tight as dicks hatband from wall to unit? Also, did you get the same ass hat technician spitting sunflower seeds all over your attic I did? If so, lump that somebitch a time or two for me and I'll send you something nice.

    When they are done installing, they are likely going to hand you a check sheet to go over. They would prefer you listen to them, sign it, and go on your way. Go look at that shit!

    These are all things I determined WILL be an issue down the road. I never, ever, ever learned anything about or worked on an a/c in my life....until I had a brand new unit put in. Since then about 4-5 years ago, I can troubleshoot and repair anything on that thing, minus filling refrigerant of course...
    Last edited by BigBallin; 07-19-2017 at 08:28 AM.
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  9. #9
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    If they put freon in at any point it has a leak period no ifs, ands, or buts about it. HVAC systems do not "use freon" like a car will "use oil". As far as completely changing out everything you will have very few other options. The only thing that could possibly be saved is the line sets and they will have to be conditioned first. (I have conditioned several line sets and never had an issue) Won't save you a whole lot of money but maybe some. The 'wip" doesn't need to be replaced just because it is 20 years old. Are you going to replace the rest of the wiring in your house because its 20 years old? I didn't think so. The thermostat wire is your call. If it is somewhere out of the way where it isn't getting hit by the weed eater every weekend it should be fine as well. You will want a new digital thermostat with a battery, but make sure you tell them you want the common hooked up. Check behind them. With the common hooked up the batteries should last over 5 years. High efficiency units will save you money in the long run. If you have SCEG they offer rebates for replacing a new unit, make sure you can get this rebate on the unit your contractor wants to use. As far as the "Variable speed" motor there is no other option when it comes to efficiency hands down it is one of the best thing to hit the HVAC industry in recent years. If your motor keeps going out fire and consider suing your contractor for installing a unit on existing duct that isn't properly sized for your unit. Once is reasonable multiple times the duct work is undersized. Also remember for the first year after install the contractor is responsible for any labor for repairs. Be sure to go online and register your unit to get the warranty extended. If your contractor knows what he is doing you should never need it.

  10. #10
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    You won't need to replace the air handler just the coil, condenser and lineset. The reason being is because the two freons arent compatible with each other.
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  11. #11
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    I am confused. Do you or don't you replace it all. One says yea and another ney
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  12. #12
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    Replace all but ducts and electrical supply.

  13. #13
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    You will need to replace the whole system and probably the line sets. I work with McCalls Supply. We have a store in Greenwood. We sell Ruud units that come with a 10 year warranty as long it is registered and a match system. Not trying to be a salesman but if you ever have any problems with unit we have parts in stock to get you up and running quickly. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

  14. #14
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    We are talking heat pump ?

  15. #15
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    You could technically get by without changing the entire indoor unit (air handler) if you find a coil that will fit into your air handler or are willing to modify your duct to accept a coil. However it would be the most idiotic thing in the world to do. It costs like an extra $200 to buy a complete air handler over just an evaporator coil, and you get a completely new fan, housing, and transformer most of which is more efficient than the 20 year old one you had.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by thms85 View Post
    If they put freon in at any point it has a leak period no ifs, ands, or buts about it. HVAC systems do not "use freon" like a car will "use oil". As far as completely changing out everything you will have very few other options. The only thing that could possibly be saved is the line sets and they will have to be conditioned first. (I have conditioned several line sets and never had an issue) Won't save you a whole lot of money but maybe some. The 'wip" doesn't need to be replaced just because it is 20 years old. Are you going to replace the rest of the wiring in your house because its 20 years old? I didn't think so. The thermostat wire is your call. If it is somewhere out of the way where it isn't getting hit by the weed eater every weekend it should be fine as well. You will want a new digital thermostat with a battery, but make sure you tell them you want the common hooked up. Check behind them. With the common hooked up the batteries should last over 5 years. High efficiency units will save you money in the long run. If you have SCEG they offer rebates for replacing a new unit, make sure you can get this rebate on the unit your contractor wants to use. As far as the "Variable speed" motor there is no other option when it comes to efficiency hands down it is one of the best thing to hit the HVAC industry in recent years. If your motor keeps going out fire and consider suing your contractor for installing a unit on existing duct that isn't properly sized for your unit. Once is reasonable multiple times the duct work is undersized. Also remember for the first year after install the contractor is responsible for any labor for repairs. Be sure to go online and register your unit to get the warranty extended. If your contractor knows what he is doing you should never need it.
    Are you an HVAC Technican?

  17. #17
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    I have a HVAC company. I'm located in pelzer. PM me if you need anything or need a quote. I do travel to greenwood as it's only 40 minutes from me.

  18. #18
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    Thanks for all the responses! Hopefully got things figured out and getting what I think is a good price from the company I wanted to do the install.
    "A duck call in the hands of the unskilled is conservation's greatest asset."-Nash Buckingham

    "The trouble with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money."

  19. #19
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    Ac man told me he wouldn't put a Rudd In his sister's house and he hated her lmao

  20. #20
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    Don't mean to hijack, but what would cost be if unit was purchased and just nitrogen flushed and charged? Other than that the installation is pretty basic - for a package unit at least.


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