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Thread: Torque Wrenches and AR Barrel Grease

  1. #1
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    Default Torque Wrenches and AR Barrel Grease

    Surprisingly, with all the hand and power tools I have accumulated over the years, I have never invested in a torque wrench, because I never really had a need for one.

    That being said, I plan on assembling an AR or two in the future, or at least changing barrels, and it would apparently be easier/safer to use a torque wrench as suggested in all the videos/instructions, etc. I am assuming that most of the torque wrenches on the cheap end of the scale (and produced in China) are junk, but I also have no intention of spending a lot of $'s on a tool I may only use a few times. I have a hard time believing that a $12-$20 Pittsburgh Pro wrench from Harbor Freight would be worth the money.

    So what brand/model of torque wrench do you 'home mechanics' who have no access to a commercial shop use for installing barrels? I'm looking for 1/2", and I would guess at a range of 20#-100#'s or so as I don't know of any use requiring higher than that, or is there value in going higher?

    Is this TEKTON 1/2" wrench really any good. At least it has a couple of good reviews...

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/TEKTON-1-2-...rench/50169195

    Grease - Many of the various posts any/or instructions I've read about installing an AR barrel mention the AeroShell 33MS grease, but I find it hard to believe that everyone actually uses that one grease. Is it safe to assume that any good lithium grease, wheel bearing grease, or even anti-seize on the barrel extension and the barrel nut threads is sufficient, since the only real purpose is to prevent contact between the aluminum receiver and the steel barrel parts to prevent corrosion?
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  2. #2
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    4/5 stars...789 reviews. Can't suck that bad for what you're doing.

    http://m.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-...not%20provided

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    Last edited by USMCsilver; 03-29-2017 at 11:36 AM.

  3. #3
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    I use antisieze and tighten the shit out of the barrel nut. You'll have to to align gas tubes / barrel nut on free float handquards occasionally. All of mine are over torqued. The reason they use a torque wrench is so the hourly guys on an assembly line don't under torque one.

  4. #4
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    I put anti-seize on the threads and torque mine. I cant remember without looking it up but think its like 30-35 ft lbs

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    Quote Originally Posted by USMCsilver View Post
    4/5 stars...789 reviews. Can't suck that bad for what you're doing.

    http://m.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-...not%20provided
    Interesting. I hadn't actually done a search at HF, I was just looking at a coupon in front of me that I got in the mail the other day. I've just always shied away from most of their products. Maybe I should give them a look. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by FLS View Post
    I use antisieze and tighten the shit out of the barrel nut. You'll have to to align gas tubes / barrel nut on free float handquards occasionally. All of mine are over torqued. The reason they use a torque wrench is so the hourly guys on an assembly line don't under torque one.
    Gotcha on the alignment issue. I'd probably not be guilty of under-torquing one, but I figure that knowing where the specified range is might be helpful.

    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    I put anti-seize on the threads and torque mine. I cant remember without looking it up but think its like 30-35 ft lbs
    Good to hear on the anti-seize as I have so many different kinds of grease around here I didn't want to have to add any more.

    The spec torque range is 35# - 80#'s. In real life, I have no reference point as to what those numbers mean, which is why I figured it was time to pick up a torque wrench. When I'm working on the bush hog or something I just grab a cheater bar/pipe and have at it, but I thought it might be a little smarter to use the right tools on something that can explode...
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodieSC View Post
    Interesting. I hadn't actually done a search at HF, I was just looking at a coupon in front of me that I got in the mail the other day. I've just always shied away from most of their products. Maybe I should give them a look. Thanks.


    Gotcha on the alignment issue. I'd probably not be guilty of under-torquing one, but I figure that knowing where the specified range is might be helpful.


    Good to hear on the anti-seize as I have so many different kinds of grease around here I didn't want to have to add any more.

    The spec torque range is 35# - 80#'s. In real life, I have no reference point as to what those numbers mean, which is why I figured it was time to pick up a torque wrench. When I'm working on the bush hog or something I just grab a cheater bar/pipe and have at it, but I thought it might be a little smarter to use the right tools on something that can explode...
    I use the same anti-seize I put on my vehicle spark plugs. A small tube is cheap at any auto parts store. silvery colored shit and slick as snot

  7. #7
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    I use the Newton Scale to torque to specs.
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  8. #8
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    Most people probably over torque even with a torque wrench simply because they don't figure in the extra leverage when using a chicken foot wrench.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    I use the same anti-seize I put on my vehicle spark plugs. A small tube is cheap at any auto parts store. silvery colored shit and slick as snot
    Magic stuff. I've got a 4 oz squeeze bottle of it that I've been using for years and may end up including in my will.
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    I bought a tub of moly grease from the auto parts store. I've read to avoid grease with graphite due to possible corrosion issues. I doubt I will ever need to worry about the electrolysis issue but it was cheap insurance.

    For the torque wrench I use a Harbor Freight brand.
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    Anti seize and as pb said make sure you calculate in the adapter. I use a snap on torque wrench but any quality tool manufacturer will work. I absolutely would not use any harbor freight bullshit. A bunch of 5 star reviews from people with no way to check accuracy of a torque wrench means nothing. I'm sure the wrench clicks but that doesn't mean dick. I'm continually amazed at the people who will spend over 1k on a gun and then buy the biggest hunk of shit tools to work on it
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    A grunt and a fart, and you're good. Gas tube alignment is the key, IMO.

  13. #13
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    PB and Griffin, you've both mentioned calculating in the leverage from the wrench. How many ft. lbs. do you guys add for it?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tha Dick View Post
    A grunt and a fart, and you're good. Gas tube alignment is the key, IMO.
    There is some truth to this. A lot of the new barrel nuts don't index to the gas tube.
    Quote Originally Posted by WoodieSC View Post
    PB and Griffin, you've both mentioned calculating in the leverage from the wrench. How many ft. lbs. do you guys add for it?
    It depends on the length of the adapter. Anything added past the head of the torque wrench changes the torque value. Probably the easiest way to combat this is to keep the adapter at a 90 degree angle to the head of the torque wrench
    Seeing these soulless vanilla ice lookin Yankees on a bassboat is worse than watching a woman get her implants taken out. It's just wrong. Get back in your Lund and go back to infisherman.

  15. #15
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    Fls said it right.

    I back off 1/16 of a turn if I grease my drawers.

    Don't over think it partner.
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  16. #16
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    (Length from the center of the handle to the center of the nut divided by the length from the center of handle to the center of the drive square) times the desired torque value equals the value that you want to set the wrench to.

    If you put the adapter at 90 degrees, you still need the same calculation. The longer the adapter, the more critical the difference is.

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    Last edited by Palmetto Bug; 03-30-2017 at 08:57 AM.

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