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Thread: Transfer switch for generator

  1. #1
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    Default Transfer switch for generator



    He makes this look way too easy. Anybody ever done it?

  2. #2
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    Manual transfer switches are easy.

    He needs to use proper wire strippers and not side cutters.

    This installation is in the grey area of NEC code 312.8 as a enclosure for over-current device is not allowed to be used as a junction box unless adequate space is provided. I know of several inspectors in the midlands that will turn down a wire nut in a panel box.

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    back feed the power through the dryer outlet. No transfer switch needed. Just turn off your main breaker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by reeltight View Post
    back feed the power through the dryer outlet. No transfer switch needed. Just turn off your main breaker.
    So turn off main breaker and all subs, generator is outside adjacent to dryer vent, run cord through the vent, plug in to dryer outlet, turn on subs as needed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by reeltight View Post
    back feed the power through the dryer outlet. No transfer switch needed. Just turn off your main breaker.
    Quote Originally Posted by Beauregard View Post
    So turn off main breaker and all subs, generator is outside adjacent to dryer vent, run cord through the vent, plug in to dryer outlet, turn on subs as needed?
    This will absolutely work.

    However, you need to install a lockout on your main.

    This is not only a code compliance issue, but a safety one as well.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

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    So you are going to make a male to male cord? Not very smart. Do it right. Install a generator receptacle that is a flush mount male plug. and it runs directly to the panel box. Install a generator breaker and then get a manual interlock for the main breaker and generator breaker.

    Link below

    http://natramelec.com/genswitch/ch/ch5/ch5.htm

  7. #7
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    Oh yeah...It works just fine. I've had to power my house this way several times. The lockout system at my new house is that the main is behind the outside fridge, no one in my household can move that but me. Otherwise at my in-laws house I taped it down with a note. Is it a fail-safe lockout tag-out method, no, but damn it should at least make people ask questions before doing something.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smilee View Post
    So you are going to make a male to male cord? Not very smart. Do it right. Install a generator receptacle that is a flush mount male plug. and it runs directly to the panel box. Install a generator breaker and then get a manual interlock for the main breaker and generator breaker.

    Link below

    http://natramelec.com/genswitch/ch/ch5/ch5.htm
    I've got male to male plugs all over the place.

    I've got one for 30A, 50A, 50A slant, and 110V-20A.

    I've never had a problem.

    Start the generator, turn generator breaker off, plug gen side in, plug house/whatever needs to be powered it, verify main power on panel side is off, flip gen breaker back on, and roll the lightning.

    I'm still alive.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
    _Spc. Thomas Caughman
    1983-2004

    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  9. #9
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    Also, if anybody needs an auto transfer switch, I've got one.

    Full 200A box.

    It'll be cheap. It's been in my way for far too long.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo View Post
    Also, if anybody needs an auto transfer switch, I've got one.

    Full 200A box.

    It'll be cheap. It's been in my way for far too long.
    Price? Brand?

  11. #11
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    Generac brand, I believe.

    Lemme get some pictures of it and I'll come up with a price.

    I'll post it up in the trading post and put a link in here.
    "Freedom Isn't Free"
    _Spc. Thomas Caughman
    1983-2004

    Quote Originally Posted by Dook View Post
    Go tigers!

  12. #12
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    There are several ways to wire a portable generator to the house that is not to code. If your fairly competent and handy with a few tools it can be done in a pinch.
    In it's simplest from, you can use a male/male plug ran from the generator to the dryer outlet to backfeed your panel box. This could be very dangerous IMO due to Murphy's Law. The risk of an exposed male plug carrying 240 volts can be substantial, proceed with extreme caution.
    Another option since you probably wont be running the HVAC on a portable generator, you can also back feed generator power thru the outside breaker for the A/C unit outside into the house panel.
    If you go either of these routes it is critical that you kill the main breaker switch in the panel box to prevent back feeding current into the power grid and killing a neighbor or power company employee. At my house I also have a second, 200 amp breaker installed outside between the meter and the house panel for extra assurance.
    The problem with either of these methods is they are not "to code" and as such, if you were to have a problem like accidently electrocuting somebody or burning your house down your insurance company probably wouldn't cover the claim and you could loose everything you own.

    Based on my research, I would like the peace of mind knowing that it's done to code and this is the simplest, cheapest way to do it using an interlock switch instead of a transfer switch.


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smilee View Post
    Do it right. Install a generator receptacle that is a flush mount male plug. and it runs directly to the panel box. Install a generator breaker and then get a manual interlock for the main breaker and generator breaker.

    Link below

    http://natramelec.com/genswitch/ch/ch5/ch5.htm
    Did this yesterday. Replaced an extra dryer receptacle with the generator inlet. Got my interlock from GenInterlock.com for $57. Kit comes with appropriate warning labels and an instruction sticker. Inlet from Amazon. Tested it and 3850/4850 W generator seems to be able to power most of the house. Probably won't be able use the oven/stove, but I think it'll run the water heater if all else is off.
    Last edited by Beauregard; 01-17-2017 at 08:28 AM.

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    It will run the water heater till the bottom element turns on, then you will trip out.

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    Um I ain't got a clue.
    Gettin old is for pussies! AND MY NEW TRUE people say like Capt. Tom >>>>>>>>>/
    "Wow, often imitated but never duplicated. No one can do it like the master. My hat is off to you DRDUCK!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beauregard View Post
    Did this yesterday. Replaced an extra dryer receptacle with the generator inlet. Got my interlock from GenInterlock.com for $57. Kit comes with appropriate warning labels and an instruction sticker. Inlet from Amazon. Tested it and 3850/4850 W generator seems to be able to power most of the house. Probably won't be able use the oven/stove, but I think it'll run the water heater if all else is off.
    Quote Originally Posted by Smilee View Post
    It will run the water heater till the bottom element turns on, then you will trip out.
    Yeah that generator will not power your water heater. But in a pinch, if you need some hot water you can always turn the thermostat off on the bottom so the element doesn't kick on and only heat the top half of the tank. The hot water for the shower and what not is pulled off the top anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by reeltight View Post
    Yeah that generator will not power your water heater. But in a pinch, if you need some hot water you can always turn the thermostat off on the bottom so the element doesn't kick on and only heat the top half of the tank. The hot water for the shower and what not is pulled off the top anyway.
    I'll try that if the occasion comes to use it. What kind of wattage would be needed for a standard water heater?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beauregard View Post
    I'll try that if the occasion comes to use it. What kind of wattage would be needed for a standard water heater?
    Well....you have to figure out what you have in your heater. I would assume you probably have two 3800 watt elements or two 4500 watt elements or a combination of both...so it's going to take a hefty generator to fire off both of them. Tankless water heaters barely use any power. It's more of a milliwatt or something. I've used a half dead car battery and a inverter to get hot water from a Rennai before.

  19. #19
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    Aux contacts on an ATS are used to disable the second element in emergency power situations. Relays in manual transfer setups like this. Relay driven by the emergency power source would energize and handle the water heater, hvac or other device not desired to run during this time.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smilee View Post
    It will run the water heater till the bottom element turns on, then you will trip out.
    Quote Originally Posted by reeltight View Post
    Well....you have to figure out what you have in your heater. I would assume you probably have two 3800 watt elements or two 4500 watt elements or a combination of both...so it's going to take a hefty generator to fire off both of them. Tankless water heaters barely use any power. It's more of a milliwatt or something. I've used a half dead car battery and a inverter to get hot water from a Rennai before.

    It only uses one element at a time, unless it's three phase, or it has two separate double pole breakers (one for each element) running to it, which I'm sure it doesn't.
    Last edited by Bownut; 01-17-2017 at 10:05 AM.

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